Walla Walla Valley Report 2011 Part I

Below is Part I of a report from the Walla Walla Valley including wines from Rasa Vineyards, Mackey Vineyards, Fjellene Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars, and àMaurice Cellars. Read a .pdf version of this report here.

Rasa Vineyards

Rasa Vineyards continues to cut a path as one of the most impressive new wineries to emerge in Washington in the last several years. There is no let up with the wineries latest wines. In fact, the current releases are as good or better than any that the winery has produced.

Brothers Billo and Pinto Naravane have made several additions to the lineup in the last year. The first is adding a label called PB (for their first initials). These are not declassified Rasa wines but rather high quality juice that didn’t fit into the Rasa program. These wines offer extraordinary value for their price point.

For the 2010 vintage, which featured cooler temperatures and higher acidity, the Naravanes made a Riesling in more of an Auslese style than their thrilling 2009 The Composer Riesling. The resulting wine, named The Lyricist, has considerably more sugar but is beautifully balanced with acidity. The result is, once again, as good of a Riesling as is being produced in Washington State.

The Naravanes have also added a stunning new Bordeaux-style blend from DuBrul Vineyard (see barrel sample notes on this wine here). Billo Naravane first met Cote Bonneville winemaker Kerry Shiels at UC Davis. Naravane later met with Kerry’s father, DuBrul Vineyard owner Hugh Shiels. “An hour meeting turned into a seven hour thing,” Naravane says. At the time, Naravane did not yet know just how coveted DuBrul fruit was. “Hugh just laughed when I asked him about fruit,” Naravane says. He later received a call offering a small parcel and accepted without even asking the price.

The resulting wine, Creative Impulse, is named after the brothers’ creative urges, urges that were always contained by their parents growing up. The Naravane’s creative skills are on full display on this wine, which rivals the best Bordeaux-style blends coming out of Washington.

Note that Rasa Vineyards is now located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley in the facility formerly occupied by Hence Cellars.

PB Syrah Yakima Valley 2008 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) Extremely dark in color. Aromas of earth, black pepper, game, dark berries, and licorice. Deep, rich, tart, flavorful fruit with a hyper-extended finish. An extremely high QPR wine. 100% Syrah. Aged 21 months in French oak (25% new). 14.8% alcohol. 224 cases produced.

PB Syrah/Cabernet Kiona Vineyards Red Mountain 2008 $29
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Abundant aromas of licorice, soil, light herbal notes, and dark fruit. Big and bold on the palate with a firm backbone of tannins and rich fruit flavors. 67% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 21 months in French oak (33% new). 14.8% alcohol. 187 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Vox Populi Mourvedre Columbia Valley 2009 $45
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark and brilliant in color with a purple tinge at the rim. Aromas of chalk, white pepper, light game, and earth. A rich, textured palate with winding fruit flavors and a persistent intensity on the finish. 100% Mourvedre. 52% Minick, 48% 48% Alder Ridge. Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 89 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards QED Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Almost completely opaque. Intoxicating aromas of black olive juice, penetrating dark berries, game, floral notes, and whiffs of dark chocolate. The palate is textured and seamlessly put together with pure berry flavors and silky tannins. Capped off by a seemingly endless finish. 83% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier. Les Collines, Double River, and Minick vineyards. Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 675 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Principia Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Quite closed up at present but shows aromas of earth, game, and berries. The palate is lithe, seamless and elegant, filled with textured fruit flavors. An incredibly impressive wine with a long life ahead of it. Give 3-plus years. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Seven Hills, Lewis, and Portteus vineyards. Aged 30 months in French oak (25% new). 14.2% alcohol. 115 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Creative Impulse Red Wine Yakima Valley 2008 $95
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compelling wine with earth, dark, dark cherry, chocolate, and herbal notes. On the palate a beautiful display of richness and power, structure and delicacy. An extremely long finish. Only continues to pick up steam after days of being open. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot. Aged 30 months in French oak (60% new). 15.1% alcohol. 140 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards The Lyricist Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An extremely aromatic wine with a fresh twist of lemon with honey, lime, green apple, and floral notes. On the sweet side of off-dry but with laser-like focus and beautifully balanced acidity. An extremely long, crisp, lingering finish. An exclamation point on Washington Riesling. 100% Riesling. Bacchus, Kilian, and Dionysus vineyards. 13.3% full botrytis, 16.9% partial botrytis. 4.89% Residual Sugar. 12.3% alcohol. 217 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards

Mackey Vineyards is a new Walla Walla winery founded by brothers Roger and Phillip Mackey. Like many who have been captivated by the Washington wine scene, the Mackey brothers, “traded their dress suits for a tractor and a plow.”

Roger Mackey writes, “I think there is nothing more special than saying here, try my wine. It’s produced from my land.” Mackey Vineyard is located in a canyon in the southeast section of the Walla Walla Valley by a fork in the Walla Walla River. The winery also owns Frenchtown Vineyard in Lowden, Washington. In addition to these two sites, Mackey also sources fruit from Les Collines, Yellowbird, Sagemoor, and DuBrul vineyards.

Mackey Vineyards has a tasting room located in downtown Walla Walla. The wines are made by Billo Naravane of Rasa Vineyards.

Mackey Vineyards Syrah Estate Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. An appealing wine with char, blackberry, light game notes, mineral, and black tea leaves. The palate is soft and lighter bodied in style with black olive and umami notes and chalky tannins. 100% Syrah. Mackey Vineyard. Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new). 13.9% alcohol. 125 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of cherry, herbal notes, pencil shavings, and dry chocolate. Dry and light bodied on the palate with elegant cherry flavors, soft tannins, and a chalky feel. Aged in French oak (70% new). 80.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.7% Merlot, 4.9% Petit Verdot. Mackey Vineyard, Heather Hill, and Gamache vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (70% new). 14.5% alcohol. 148 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Concordia Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Like running through a field of wild flowers and berries eating a bar of dark chocolate. A perfumed palate that is deft on its feet with a silky structure, full of berry flavors, game, and mineral notes. Lingers on the finish. 77.4% Syrah, 12.9% Grenache, and 9.7% Mourvedre. Les Collines, Bacchus, and Minick vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (35% new). 14.9% alcohol. 370 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Off-Dry Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with red apples, tropical fruit, honey, and floral notes. Off-dry in style with a fair amount of sugar but well balanced by mouthwatering acidity. A very well-priced bottle of wine for this level of quality. 100% Riesling. Bacchus and Kilian Vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.1% alcohol. 167 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars

Fjellene Cellars, pronounced fyel-LAY-nuh, is a new Walla Walla winery. The winery is named after a word for mountains in Norwegian. Owner and winemaker Matthew Erlandson says that the winery is, “Dedicated to those who find solace in a place which most will never experience.”

Erlandson was an outdoor educator and guide for thirteen years at NOLS and Outward Bound in the western United States, British Columbia, and Central and South America before deciding to turn his attention to winemaking. He was working a job at Northern Arizona University when he took a three-month absence to make wine in Washington. Hooked, he gave his notice, sold his house, and moved to Walla Walla. Erlandson made his first wines in 2007 and had his first release this spring. The 2007 through 2009 wines were made while he was an assistant at Balboa and Beresan, and Erlandson credits winemaker Tom Glase with mentoring him. Erlandson moved into the space previously occupied by Trust Cellars, which moved to the airport region, at the beginning of the year.

Erlandson puts a particular emphasis on vineyard sources, saying, “I want my Cabernet Franc to taste like Cabernet Franc from Waliser Vineyard.” Erlandson uses a variety of excellent sources, including Les Collines, Yellow Jacket, Waliser, Two Blondes, and Candy Mountain. With the exception of two blends, the Fjellene Cellars wines are otherwise single vineyard and single varietal, including a rare Walla Walla Valley-designated Sauvignon Blanc.

Stylistically Erlandson says, “I love low alcohol, high acid wines. I want to be simple with the wines and not over complicate things.” Indeed, Erlandson’s wines are unusual from most of what can be found in the valley, with less emphasis on oak and overly ripe fruit flavors. Rather these wines are more acid driven and best enjoyed with food. Fjellene Cellars, which Erlandson owns with his wife Sarah, puts a particular emphasis on sustainability. Pumice and stems are composted; lees are recycled; old barrels are turned into artwork. Erlandson writes, “Although we are not claiming to be sustainable at this time, we are making every effort to minimize our waste while renewing our resources to lessen our impact on the planet. We believe that sustainability is not something you achieve, but rather a mindset that requires time and long-term goals.”

In a nod to his love of the mountains, the Fjellene label is an image of a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. With his new winery Matt Erlandson provides further evidence to my hypothesis that climbers make good winemakers – and provides one of the year’s more intriguing new wineries. This will be one to keep an eye on.

Fjellene Cellars produced 600 cases in 2008 and 2009 and 1,000 cases in 2010.

Fjellene Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley 2010 $22
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of pear, melon, and touches of tropical fruit. Fresh and fruit-filled on the palate with abundant grapefruit flavors. 100% Les Collines Vineyard Block 2. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. 125 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) Light cherry red color. Abundant strawberry, cherry, and light bubble gum notes. Crisp and tart with bright acidity with just the suggestion of sugar (0.89 g/L). 100% Syrah. 12.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced. NB: The only reason I don’t list this wine as ‘Recommended’ is the price point is a bit high compared to its peers. However, this remains one of my favorite rosés of the year.

Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with baker’s chocolate, herbal notes, and whiffs of roasted nuts. The palate is restrained on the oak and alcohol with tart, winding fruit flavors. Aged 21 months in French oak (25% new). 100% Cabernet Franc. Waliser Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars The North Col Blend Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of dusty chocolate, herbal notes, and tea leaves. Tart on the palate with dried black cherries and crisp acidity. An enjoyable, stylistic wine meant to be consumed with food. Those looking for big fruit and lots of oak flavors should look elsewhere. 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Waliser Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (50% new). 14.1% alcohol. 96 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars The South Col Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Aromas of dry chocolate, herbal notes, and a touch of the Rocks funk. Tart and light bodied on the palate with a big ball of fruit in the middle. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Franc. Yellow Jacket, Waliser, and Candy Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 192 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with medicinal notes, baker’s chocolate, herbal notes, and cherry. The fruit is restrained and the oak far in the background with a real acid blast that stitches this wine together. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Pepper Bridge. Aged 20 months in French oak (30% new). 14.3% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars

Sleight of Hand Cellars is movin’ on up like George and Wheezy – both literally and figuratively. The winery recently moved into a new location in the southern part of Walla Walla next door to Saviah Cellars and Beresan. The facility, which has a LARGE Sleight of Hand Cellars sign on the outside, is 2,000 square feet with a barrel space big enough to accommodate 4,000 cases annually. The winery is also building a new facility next door where production will take place. There is even a guest house on the property for wine club members.

While the new facility is much larger than the winery’s downtown tasting room, which is now inhabited by Kerloo Cellars, the vibe is still the same. On the day I visited the winery the Beach Boys Pet Sounds was playing, on vinyl of course.

The juice from winemaker Trey Busch continues movin’ on up as well. Current releases include a dazzling Chardonnay from French Creek Vineyard (Maison Bleue also makes a vineyard designated Chardonnay from this vineyard which provides an interesting comparison and contrast) and a new release from the winery – the Funkadelic Syrah. This wine is from third leaf fruit from Richard Funk’s vineyard in the Rocks region of the Walla Walla Valley. This is a compelling example Walla Walla Valley Syrah, showing the stylistic consistency from this southern valley region.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Magician White Wine Evergreen Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $17
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with peaches, white flowers, honey, and mineral. A full bodied wine that is tart and crisp with rounded fruit flavors, especially lime. This is your perfect, delicious summer wine. 85% Gewurztraminer, 15% Riesling. 12.5% alcohol. 1.1% Residual Sugar.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Enchantress Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of spice, butter, and Granny Smith apple. A layered wine with a creamy mid-palate and etched acidity. 100% Chardonnay. French Creek Vineyard. Barrel fermented and aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 90 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Magician’s Assistant Rose Columbia Valley $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light salmon color. Aromas of strawberry, melon, and light spices. Bone dry on the palate with crisp, incredibly fresh fruit flavors. An extremely enjoyable wine with great acidity. 100% Cabernet Franc. Black Rock and Chelle den Millie vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.2% alcohol. Recommended

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Spellbinder Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $19
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant cherry aromas along with tobacco and herbal notes on a wine with a lot of aromatic complexity for its price point. A rich mouthfeel on an incredibly clean, focused palate with refined tannins. A lingering finish. A screaming deal at this price point. 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 10% Sangiovese, and 9% Syrah. Blue Mountain, Red Mountain, Phinny Hill, Seven Hills, Lewis, Les Collines, Blackrock, Chelle den Mille, and Double Canyon vineyards. Aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.4% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Illusionist Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Appealing aromas of black cherry, coffee bean, a jumble of blue fruit, and mineral notes. The palate has incredibly clean, fresh, plump fruit flavors with dense, refined, supple tannins. Beautiful intensity of fruit with a lot of pure cabernet flavors. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah. Va Piano, Double River, Red Mountain, Frenchtown, Chelle den Mille vineyards. Aged 23 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Levitation Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color with purple at the rim. Abundant notes of violets along with smoked meats and a toasty top note. The palate is lithe and loaded with raspberries and red fruit flavors. A cranberry lick on the finish. 100% Syrah. Les Collines and Lewis Vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 298 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Funkadelic Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $60
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Aromas jump from the glass of earth, funk, mineral, black olive juice, ash, game, and a whiff of orange peel. A thoroughly delicious, delectable wine that shows the Rocks district of the Walla Walla Valley perfectly. 100% Syrah. The Funk Vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak (25% new). 13.9% alcohol. 95 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars

Winemaker Anna Schafer of àMaurice Cellars continues to impress with another set of extraordinary releases. It’s clear talking with Schafer that she has a strong attachment to her wines. Schafer says, referring to her new releases – some of which are currently out and the rest of which will be released shortly – “I don’t know about the new people showing up. You have to live with them for a year to get used to them.”

While it may take Schafer time to adjust, the new àMaurice Cellars wines are among the best the winery has produced. The entire lineup is captivating without a weak link in the bunch. Among the standouts is an extremely high quality Chardonnay. While Schafer’s Malbec is always one of the winery’s strengths – and among the best examples of this varietal in Washington – the 2008 vintage offering is bigger and brawnier, or as Schafer says affectionately, “a little monster.”

Schafer calls the Red Blend in the “heart of the winery” and if so the heart beats strongly. The 2008 vintage is named after Northwest artist Mark Tobey, the first American painter to ever have an exhibit at the Louvre. The 2008 vintage contains a healthy dose – 30% – of Cabernet Franc. Schafer says of the blend, “At first Cabernet Franc fights with the other kids at first and then it subsides.” The 2008 ‘The Tobey’ Red Wine is a stunner that punches far above its price point.

àMaurice Cellars Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with white peaches and light floral notes. The palate is full bodied redolent with peach flavors with a honeyed feel. Capped off by a long finish. 100% Viognier. Gamache Vineyard & Elephant Mountain Vineyards. Barrel fermented and aged in 2-year old French oak. 354 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) A light green tinge to the color. Appealing aromas of spice and light toast along with yellow apple. Palate is crisp, tart, and textured with a weighted feel and a long finish. Add àMaurice Cellars to the list of great Washington Chardonnay producers. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee and Lewis vineyards. Fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). 314 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Grenache/Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with a jumble of red and blue fruit along with light game, raspberries, floral notes, and a distinctive mineral note. Deliciously ripe, fleshy red fruit flavors on the palate lead to a lingering finish. Has a grainy, chewy feel. 88% Syrah, 12% Grenache. Boushey, Lewis, Minick, and aMaurice vineyards. Aged in 2-year-old French oak. 231 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark and inky with a purple rim. Abundant pepper and plum aromas along with spice. Rich and flavorful on the palate with great depth on a deliciously varietal wine. A big, brawny beast with a long finish. 100% Malbec. Gamache Vineyard. Aged in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars ‘The Tobey’ Red Wine Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Cabernet Franc pops at present with herbal notes, rich cherries, and high toned floral notes. A rich, layered wine with graceful, structured tannins. Huge and rich with focused fruit flavors. 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot. Sagemoor, Bacchus, Dionysus, Gamache, Weinbau, and Tokar vineyards. Aged in French oak. 14.6% alcohol. 492 cases produced.

Fresh Sheet July 6th 2011

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from J Bookwalter Winery, Cadaretta, Dowsett Family, and Idilico.

J Bookwalter Winery

J Bookwalter Winery is located in Richland, Washington. The winery was founded in 1983 by Jerry and Jean Bookwalter.

For many years Bookwalter focused its efforts largely on Riesling and other white wines. Their son John, who now owns the winery and serves as winemaker, recalls that when he came to work there in 1997, it was making a staggering ten different white wines. Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar said to him, “You guys need to reinvent yourself!”

This is exactly what John Bookwalter has done during his time at the winery. Bookwalter made his first wines “vine to wine” in 2000. Since that time his focus has been on making “finesse driven” wines, with a particular focus on blending.

One of John Bookwalter’s early wines from the 2002 vintage was called ‘Chapter 1.’ The book motif subsequently became a theme for the winery with names such as Foreshadow, Subplot (though not reviewed here this is a consistently high QPR wine), Conflict, and Antithesis.

From the 2000 through 2008 vintages Bookwalter worked with consultant Zelma Long. Starting with the 2009 vintage he has worked with top French winemaker Claude Gros. The results have been dazzling, with the winery’s current lineup competing with the state’s best. The Bookwalter wines are all rich and hedonistic, stylistic and age-worthy.

The winery has also been extremely successful in hosting music at the winery Wednesday through Saturday. The result is a destination winery with a lineup that can’t be beat. The winery also has a tasting room in Woodinville in the schoolhouse area.

Despite the winery’s success, Bookwalter remains humble. “I’m still in the rookie class of winemaking,” he says. Bookwalter promises to continue with his book-based wines with the occasional Chapter Series offering, saying with a laugh, “When I hit Chapter 7 I’m closing the doors and locking them up!”

J Bookwalter Winery makes approximately 12,000 cases annually.

J Bookwalter Winery Couplet Chardonnay-Viognier Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) The combination of few words fill me as much fear as these two – Chardonnay and Viognier. These two grapes are incredibly easy to foul up on their own let alone trying to blend them. However, there is nothing to fear with this wine from Bookwalter, one that beautifully combines the best that these grapes have to offer. An aromatic wine with floral notes, peaches, pear, and spice. The palate has abundant peach, melon, and apple flavors with crisp, mouthwatering acidity. 74% Chardonnay, 26% Viognier. Co-fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.5% alcohol. 1,184 cases produced. Recommended.

J Bookwalter Winery Foreshadow Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Pleasing, initially oak-dominated aromatics of toast and spice which give way to abundant cherry notes. On the palate a silky, hedonistic wine with rich fruit flavors and a lingering finish. Merlot 81%, Syrah 11%, Petit Verdot 3%, Malbec 3% and Cabernet Franc 2%. Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, Conner-Lee, Elephant Mountain, and McKinley Springs vineyards. Aged 18 months in new and used French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 1,468 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Foreshadow Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Pretty French oak spices along with herbal notes, black cherry, and licorice. The palate is full of rich fruit flavors with abundant oak accents and silky tannins. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Dionysus, Conner-Lee, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, McKinley Springs, and Elephant Mountain. Aged 20 months in French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 1,850 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Antithesis Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compellingly aromatic wine with a cornucopia of dark cherries, berries, and spice along with herbal notes. On the palate, a hedonistic, rich wine with incredible inner mouth perfume, density, and exceptional length. 45% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Conner Lee, Ciel du Cheval, and Dionysus vineyards. Aged 16 months in new and used French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 205 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Conflict Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Abundant notes of spice, earth, dark fruit, and licorice. A spectacularly rich wine that explodes across the palate, buffeted by soft tannins. A show-stopper of hedonistic delight. 66% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc & 1% Petit Verdot. 91% Conner Lee, 7% McKinley Springs, 2% Ciel du Cheval. Aged 20 months in French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 572 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Conflict Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intoxicating aromatics of spice, potpourri, blueberries, raspberries, and black fruit along with French oak accents. A delicious, fruit laden palate with silky tannins. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and 10% Malbec. Aged 20 months in new and used French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 208 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

J Bookwalter Winery Protagonist Red Wine Red Mountain 2007 $50
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) An aromatic wine with black fruit, dust, licorice, and scorched earth. Deliciously rich fruit on a perfectly put together palate with slightly assertive but still well integrated tannins. 69% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah, and 2% Petit Verdot. Ciel du Cheval (65%), Klipsun Vineyard (25%), Conner Lee, and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 938 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Protagonist Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) French oak aromas leap from the glass with toast and spice followed by waves of cherry, smoke, and licorice on a wine that immediately demands attention. Rich and intense on the palate with winding fruit flavors. Capped off by a long finish. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah. Conner Lee and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 146 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Chapter Three Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $78
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An arresting wine with spice, licorice, earth, char, and black fruit. Stunningly rich and powerful yet with refined elegance. A wine that almost overwhelms the senses. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, and 7% Petit Verdot. Conner-Lee, Ciel du Cheval, Elephant Mountain, and McKinley Springs vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 207 cases produced.

Cadaretta

Cadaretta is owned by the Middleton family. The family’s roots date back to 1898 when they started a lumber business in Aberdeen, Washington. The family also owns California-based Clayhouse Wines as well as Buried Cane, all under the umbrella of Middleton Family Wines.

Cadaretta is named after one of the family’s schooners, used to ship timber down to California in the 1920s. The winery, which was established in 2005, is located in Walla Walla. An estate vineyard, Southwind, was planted in the Walla Walla Valley in 2008.

Acclaimed Australian winemaker Larry Cherubino recently joined the winery as Director of Winemaking. Brian Rudin serves as resident winemaker, with the Cadaretta wines made at Walla Walla’s Artifex. The winery does not currently have a tasting facility but is open at Artifex for events and by appointment.

Since the beginning, Cadaretta’s SBS – a Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon Blend – has been a consistent standout. This trend continues with the 2010 vintage. Indeed this wine is one of my favorite whites to date from the 2010 vintage with racy, mouthwatering acidity. The Windthrow is a Southern Rhone-style blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Grenache.

Cadaretta SBS Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon Columbia Valley 2010 $23
Rating: * (Excellent) A delicious, aromatic wine with gooseberry, mineral, and citrus notes. Palate has a full, rounded feel, full of white grapefruit favors with tart, mouthwatering, racy acidity. A very clean, extremely enjoyable wine. Oysters anyone? 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon. Spring Creek, Frenchman Hills, and Rosebud vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 14.1% alcohol. 820 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cadaretta Windthrow Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatically appealing with blueberries, red fruit, and spice. The palate is tart and full of plump fruit flavors. A lingering cranberry-filled finish. 36% Syrah, 29% Mourvedre, 18% Counoise, and 17% Grenache. Pepper Bridge, Stone Tree, Alder Ridge, and Alice vineyards. Aged in French oak (36% new). 14.6% alcohol. 110 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

Chris Dowsett at Dowsett Family Wines is serious about Gewurztraminer (see a previous write-up on the winery here and a recent post by Through the Walla Walla Grapevine on the winery here). Perhaps it is because Gewurztraminer was the first wine Dowsett ever made back in 1983? Perhaps it is because this grape can be so versatile with food pairings? Whatever the reason, Dowsett shows a dedication to the grape that borders on fanaticism – and he consistently crafts the state’s best. The 2010 Dowsett Family Wines Gewurztraminer is a thoroughly delicious wine with all of the grape’s floral notes and spice along with the bright acidity of the 2010 vintage.

Dowsett Family Wines Gewurztraminer Celilo Vineyard Columbia Gorge 2010 $22
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine that is like walking through a field of white flowers while holding a freshly cut grapefruit. Tart with racy acidity with loads of spice and grapefruit flavors. Some might find it almost a bit too tart for their taste – others might find it almost a bit too delicious. 173 cases produced.

I wrote about Idilico in a recent Five Under $15 piece. The winery is a sister brand to Pomum Cellars. With Idilico, Spanish native Javier Alfonso looks to bring Iberian peninsula wines to the masses. The 2009 Garnacha – if you want to see Alfonso bristle, refer to the grape as Grenache – hails from Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain.

Idilico Garnacha Washington State 2009 $20
Rating: + (Good) Leaps up with red fruit, crushed peanuts, and wood spice. The palate is tart, soft and fruit filled. Aged 12 months in neutral French oak. 14.0% alcohol. 74 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Looks to Hit the Right Notes

Tonight! June Virtual Tasting from 7-8pm. Read about how to participate here.

Tenor Wines is one of the more intriguing new wineries to come along in Washington recently.

The winery takes a unique approach in its offerings. While most wineries in Washington and elsewhere focus on making a particular lineup of wines each year – say Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, and Chardonnay – Tenor instead has a lineup that varies each year depending on what the vintage gives.

For example, in 2007 Tenor made a Merlot and a Malbec. In 2008, it made a Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah. Additionally, while many wineries blend in larger or smaller percentages of other varietals, the Tenor wines are 100% varietal. The intention is to show the true expression of that particular varietal in that particular vintage.

Winemaker Aryn Morell, who also serves as consulting winemaker at Matthews Estate, says his goal with Tenor is not just to showcase particular varietals but also to only offer “world-class” wines. By this he means that the wines compare favorably to the best examples from a particular vintage. The winery even guarantees this to be the case.

In addition to its 100% varietal wines, Tenor also makes a single Bordeaux-style blend. This wine is called 1:1, alternately meaning Chapter 1, verse 1 and symbolizing a “new beginning.” In contrast to the rest of its portfolio, the winery plans to make this Bordeaux-style blend each year.

In terms of approach, Morell says he puts a premium on balance and that his goal with Tenor is, “powerful refinement.” He says, “I want a wine that is powerful but doesn’t come off as a slap in the face.”

While Tenor focuses largely on single varietal wines, Morell believes the sum of these wines is just as important. “My hope is that the wines will be seen more as a collection than individual parts,” he says.

The winery is elusive about its vineyard sources, stating on its website, “For business reasons, we do not disclose the names of our vineyard partners.” Morell believes, however, that focusing in the vineyard is critical. He travels to eastern Washington approximately 30 times a year to work with the winery’s sites.

The Tenor project is nothing if not ambitious – a new winery with price points that compete with some of the state’s best. While this would seem to be a particular challenge given the current state of the economy, Tenor’s initial releases are nothing if not impressive.

As one might expect, Tenor is starting off slowly, making 270 cases in 2007, increasing to 560 in 2008, and 610 in 2009. The 2010 numbers are still being determined. The winery recently opened a tasting room in the Warehouse District of Woodinville.

Tenor Wines Malbec Columbia Valley 2007 $48
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark to the point of being opaque. Brooding aromatics of plum, high toned pepper, spice, and licorice. On the palate a big, rich, delicious, beautifully polished wine with concentrated fruit flavors and a firm backbone of tannins. A seemingly endless finish. A beautiful mixture of power and finesse with a long life ahead of it. 100% Malbec. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 38 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $48
Rating: ** (Exceptional) The aromatics are arrestingly complex with licorice, coffee bean, a jumble of red and black fruit, and high toned oak spices. The palate is big and beautifully rich with a cornucopia of fruit flavors. Rich and opulent while retaining great subtlety. Capped off by a long finish. A shot across the bow of the state’s top Merlots. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 78 cases produced.

Tenor Wines 1:1 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $78
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A big dollop of licorice, black fruit, pencil shavings, and spice on a complex, detailed aroma profile where the layers keep coming. On the palate, a gigantically big wine with rich black fruit flavors and a big lick of tannins. A beautiful balance of grace and power. Give three years. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 10% Malbec. Aged 21 months in new French oak. 141 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $58
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intensely dark in color with purple at the rim. Aromatics pop with olive, mineral, smoke, and black fruit. A textured, rich palate with a compelling mouthfeel an beautifully integrated tannins. Big while never quite being over the top, this wine ramps up and sails on the finish. 100% Syrah. Aged 17 months in 500L French oak barrels. 15.0% alcohol. 108 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $58
Rating: * (Excellent) Locked up tightly at present with licorice, pencil lead, and high toned red fruit. The palate has generous amounts of fruit while remaining deft on its feet. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 165 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $78
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Enticing aromas of pencil box, high toned herbal notes, black cherries, and cranberries. Simultaneously big and refined on the palate with the structure for the long haul. Give two plus years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 21 months in new French oak. 152 cases produced.

An encore performance from Drew Bledsoe’s Doubleback

Doubleback was unquestionably one of 2010’s most exciting new wineries. On the cusp of its second release, the winery shows every sign of establishing itself as one of Washington’s best.

Doubleback was founded by former NFL quarterback and Walla Walla native Drew Bledsoe and his wife Maura. Critical to the winery’s success, Chris Figgins from Figgins Family Wine Estates was hired as consulting winemaker (read a Focus Report on the winery here).

The response to Doubleback’s inaugural release, a 2007 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, was overwhelming. It included dueling 95-point scores from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator and a spot on the latter’s annual Top 100 list.

Bledsoe says that, even with top vineyard sources and one of the state’s best winemakers in place, he never expected such a positive response to the first release. Apparently many of his friends didn’t either.

“One of the most gratifying things is having friends and former players that bought the wine just to be supportive and then get the wine and crack a bottle. I would get text messages and phone calls saying, ‘Dude this wine is actually really, really good!’” Bledsoe says with a laugh. “They were looking at it, rightfully so, like, ‘This old football player, what does he know about wine?’”

Far from a vanity project, Drew Bledsoe is serious about wine and about making the best Walla Walla Valley Cabernet possible at Doubleback. The 2008 vintage release continues to set the bar high. In fact, when the 2007 wine was being released both Bledsoe and Chris Figgins were already quietly talking about how excited they were about the 2008 vintage.

Bledsoe says that while the 2008 wine is a clear sibling to the 2007 vintage, he believes it’s a bit more complete. “We’ve still got the nice soft tannin structure on the attack and nice long finish; nice acidity that gives us some more flexibility in terms of food pairing; but I think we rounded out the middle,” Bledsoe says. “It’s a bigger, rounder, and I would say even softer wine than the 2007.”

Much like the 2007 release, the 2008 Cabernet uses top sources Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, and Figgins Estate. However the winery added Cabernet Sauvignon from LeFore Vineyard in The Rocks district of the Walla Walla Valley, which Bledsoe says has given the wine some minerality.

To support the inaugural release Bledsoe traveled to the areas he played football – New England, Buffalo, and Dallas. What he found was that despite the amount of exceptional wine being produced in Washington, the region remains somewhat unknown in many areas of the country.

“There is still some relative ignorance about the quality that is coming out of Walla Walla and out of Washington when you get out to the rest of the country,” Bledsoe says. “It’s still very Napa centric.” Both a wine lover and a strong advocate for the Washington wine industry, Bledsoe used the opportunity to give a message he firmly believes.

“I believe Washington is not just another wine region,” Bledsoe says. “This is a wine region that is producing some of the very best wines in the world.” Comparing Washington and California he says, “I think are we’re delivering better quality and better value at every price point.”

Bledsoe says that Doubleback’s mission will continue to be focusing on the production of a single wine. He plans to increase production as the winery’s vineyard sources mature over time. “The goal,” he says, “is to get into a range where we actually turn it into a viable business instead of just an expensive hobby.”

As the winery continues to progress, Bledsoe has made a number of changes. He sold his Flying B Vineyard in the Columbia Valley and purchased another vineyard in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley. This vineyard was subsequently named after Bledsoe’s late father-in-law, Bob Healy.

Bledsoe says that there is some irony in giving the site his father-in-law’s name. “He and I had this on-going debate forever and ever about wine,” Bledsoe says. “He was one of these guys that thinks its just pure marketing, and there’s no difference between a $10 bottle and a $100 bottle. Now I’m getting the last word. We’ll make some kick-ass wine from the vineyard named after him.”

Despite having a well-known name and signing on one of the state’s best winemakers, Bledsoe says that succeeding in the industry is still not easy. “You literally have to do everything right,” he says. “The quality has got to be there. The marketing has got to be there. You’ve got to get face-to-face with people and tell the story. If you touch all of the bases, then you’ve got a shot. If you miss on any one of them then you’re behind the eight ball a little bit.”

While four years removed from the NFL, Bledsoe continues to have an interest in the sport – and fans continue to have interest in him. Bledsoe was recently voted by New England Patriots fans into the teams’ Hall of Fame. The Bledsoe family will travel back to New England for the induction in September – assuming there is an NFL season.

Bledsoe, for one, believes the current labor dispute will ultimately be resolved. “I think they all recognize that they’d be killing the Golden Goose,” he says. “It’s all fun and games until you start missing actual football games. That’s when you’re going alienate your fan base. Fans don’t want to see the billionaires arguing with the millionaires over money. It doesn’t really resonate with people.” Amen.

Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Aromas of cherries, raspberries, earth, espresso, licorice, woodspice, and a touch of herbal notes on an aromatically complex, compelling wine. Rich, ripe, and wound up tightly at present with a dense core of fruit, earth flavors, and soft, beautifully refined tannins. A thirty plus second finish. Give one to two years but will be worth the wait. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 7% Petite Verdot. Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Figgins Estate, and LeFore vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (60% new). 14.4% alcohol. 900 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Unsung wineries – Woodinville Wine Cellars

Woodinville Wine Cellars is one of Washington’s unsung wineries – one that consistently produces high quality wine yet remains largely below the radar.

The winery was founded by Stan Barrett. Barrett is President and CEO of Art Culinaire, sole US distributor for Lacanche professional cooking ranges. Several of these ranges are in use at the winery, which places a premium on the experience of wine, food, and the family table.

The facility, which was previously used for Silver Lake’s sparkling production, was initially a co-op for a group that is now a who’s who of Woodinville, including Mark Ryan, Gorman, and Stevens. Woodinville Wine Cellars was initially one of those wineries and had its first release in the 2002 vintage.

Winemaker Sean Boyd started out in the wine business working at a wine shop in California. From there he traveled the globe working at wineries in such far flung places as Spain, Portugal, and Australia before finally settling in Washington.

Boyd’s work in Australia included a stint at Penfolds under winemaker Daryl Groom. “I went there in 1991 and got the wine bug bad,” he says. Of working at Penfolds Boyd says, “It was harder than I’ve ever worked in my life.”

After moving to Washington Boyd worked for a number of years at Pete’s Wine Shop in Bellevue. He began working at Woodinville Wine Cellars part-time in 2002 as assistant winemaker. He was hired full-time in 2005.

All of Boyd’s wines at Woodinville Wine Cellars have a distinctive style with cedar and black tea notes and tart, intense, lingering fruit flavors. Each of the wines harkens to Bordeaux more so than many found in Washington. All boast excellent aging potential.

While the winery itself is located in an office park, the setting is considerably more scenic than most in the area. Little Bear Creek gurgles by outside the winery and a lawn with picnic tables is an ideal place to enjoy a glass or two on a summer day.

Woodinville Wine Cellars makes 3,500 cases annually.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of spice, pear, tropical fruit, and apple. Tart and clean with an acidic kick and a full mouthfeel. Artz (60%) and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged in stainless steel (75%) and French oak. Aged 1 month sur lee. 13.9% alcohol. 600 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Little Bear Creek Red Wine Columbia Valley $20
Rating: + (Good) Appealing aromas of pepper, spice, and high toned black cherry on a wine that calls out to Bordeaux. The palate is full of chewy fruit, tea leaves, and spice. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Stillwater Creek, Conner Lee, Meek, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (60% new). 14.5% alcohol. 549 cases produced. Recommended.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Brilliantly colored with a glass staining purple tinge. Very pretty notes of vanilla, smoke, black tea, char, cherry, and a whiff of licorice. A tacky feeling wine with a tart crispness. A persistent finish. 100% Syrah. Stillwater Creek, Chandler Reach, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (100% new). 14.8% alcohol. 167 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Indomitable Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Alluring aromas of licorice, black tea, black cherry, vanilla, and spice on a wine to linger over. A beautifully understated wine that is restrained and elegant with pure, intense, chewy fruit flavors. Beautifully balanced with a thirty-plus second finish. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 11% Malbec. Conner Lee and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (78% new). 14.3% alcohol. 220 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Compelling aromas of black tea leaves, mocha, black cherry, and bright, penetrating aromas of licorice and cedar. Breathtakingly beautiful on the palate with winding cranberry flavors, puckering acidity, intense fruit flavors, and graceful tannins. An extended finish with lingering spice notes. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stillwater Creek (50%), Conner Lee (25%), and Dineen (25%). Aged 26 months in French oak (100% new). 14.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars O.M.O Odd Man Out Red Will Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $36
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Stains the glass. Bright aromas of cedar, spice, light green notes, berries, and toasty spice. A big, rich, tannic wine with abundant cherry fruit flavors and a zing of acidity. A long finish with abundant spice notes. 67% Petite Verdot, 33% Malbec. Aged 22 months in French oak (100% new). 14.8% alcohol. 76 cases produced.

Merlot strikes back!

In 2004 the movie Sideways seemingly dealt a deathblow to Merlot for a generation of wine drinkers. In the movie, the character Myles famously states, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f#!ing Merlot!” Merlot sales subsequently dropped and Pinot Noir, the character’s preferred wine, correspondingly rose.

Why did Myles malign merlot? With good reason. Merlot, especially when made cheaply and at high volume, can be light, fruity and inoffensive – but also entirely uninteresting. There are millions of gallons Merlot made in a style that is essentially a red wine for white wine drinkers.

Washington State was not immune from the so-called ‘Sideways effect.’ For many years Merlot was the grape that Washington was looking to hang its hat on. Washington Merlot is a different beast than that found to the south in California. Here the grape can be as tannic if not more tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon while retaining the fresh red fruit flavors the grape is known for.

As Washington looked to establish an identity for itself around a particular varietal, Merlot seemed an obvious choice. Once things went Sideways, the search for a signature varietal continued.

Although most say the Sideways effect was temporary in terms of sales, Merlot still has a big hill to climb to get back to respectability. Consumers now think they aren’t supposed to like Merlot, otherwise they are unsophisticated. To wit, I have repeatedly blind tasted out-of-town friends on Washington State Merlot. They have in almost all cases thought that the wine was Cabernet Sauvignon (a cool grape) and liked it – until I told them that it was Merlot (a not so cool grape). Then their enjoyment suddenly waned.

With a lot of mediocre wine out there on the shelves, the only way for Merlot to make a comeback in Washington and elsewhere is for the wines themselves to change people’s minds one bottle at a time. The 2007 Merlot releases from Northstar Winery seem destined to do just that.

Northstar is part of Ste Michelle Wine Estates’ ‘string of pearls.’ The winery was founded in 1994 with the goal of creating the world’s best Merlot. While the winery has had numerous successful and critically acclaimed vintages, the 2007 vintage wines perhaps reach the closest to these aspirations.

2007 was a spectacular vintage in Washington State where all of the elements lined up to produce top quality Merlot. The weather was hot and even and the growing season was long. In addition to exceptional growing conditions, several changes were made at Northstar that also seem to have improved the resulting wines.

This was the first vintage Northstar used a sorting table, which winemaker David Merfeld said both cleaned up the fruit and allowed him to do whole berry fermentation on 40-60% of the grapes. Merfeld also dialed back the oak and kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower with the goal of softening up the tannins.

Northstar makes two Merlot bottlings each year – one from the Columbia Valley and one from the Walla Walla Valley. Merfeld describes these wines as, “two different animals.” The Columbia Valley offering is designed to be more crisp and dense, the Walla Walla Valley wine more sleek and seductive.

For each wine, Northstar gets the pick of the litter from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s extensive vineyard sources. The Columbia Valley Merlot comes from 14 separate vineyards and 18 different blocks within these vineyards. The 2007 Walla Walla Valley offering includes Merlot from Anna Marie Vineyard, near Seven Hills, and Loess, one of Leonetti’s estate vineyards.

Northstar always tries to walk a balance beam between the here-and-now crowd and those looking for long-term cellar potential. Merfeld says, “I think we nailed it in 2007.”

Nail it the winery did. These are not your mother’s Merlots. The 2007 Northstar Merlots are both muscular, opulent, hedonistic wines, showing extremely well now but promising to thrive for many years in the cellar. The Walla Walla Valley offering in particular is a stunner that is bound to change a lot of minds about Merlot. The integration of tannins in these wines is exceptional. Both are about as good as it gets from Washington – or anywhere else for that matter. Taken together with other top offerings from around the state, they are proof positive that Washington Merlot at its best is simply too good to ignore.

Northstar Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with incense, cherry, red currant, black fruit, whiffs of coconut, and mocha. Broad, tart, and lush on the palate with a muscular fruit profile and ripe, well-integrated, fine grained tannins. A deliciously long finish. 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Aged 18 months in French oak (60% new). 14.7% alcohol. 11,500 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Northstar Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Leaps from the glass with complex aromas of earth, black tea, black fruit, cranberry, raspberry, licorice, chocolate, spice, incense, and mocha. A thick, dense, muscular wine with rich fruit flavors and exceptionally well-integrated, silky tannins. Capped off by a hyper-extended finish. An exclamation point for the varietal that is bound to change a lot of minds about Merlot. 78% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot. Aged 18 months in French oak (56% new). 14.7% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Charlie Hoppes – Fidelitas’ whirlwind winemaker

Charlie Hoppes (pronounced hop-pas) of Fidelitas Wines is one of Washington’s whirlwind winemakers.

Hoppes first became interested in wine in 1982 while working as an engineer at Boeing. He started out with a winemaking kit. A year later he purchased a batch of Riesling grapes and made wine at his father-in-law’s house. He was hooked.

Hoppes soon changed career directions and headed off to UC Davis, graduating in 1988. At Davis, he would not only learn the ins and outs of winemaking, he would also meet Mike Januik, now of Januik Winery, who would give him his start in the wine industry.

Upon graduation, Hoppes was hired by Januik at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Two years later he became assistant winemaker. By 1993 he was head red winemaker at Washington’s flagship winery. During his time at Ste. Michelle Hoppes put his thumb print on many of the winery’s top wines, including the first vintages of Col Solare.

Hoppes left Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1999 to start his own winery. Fidelitas, named after his father-in-law, Dan Fidelis O’Neill, had its first vintage in 2000. The name is meant to stand for faithfulness, loyalty, and truth. The winery’s logo is an unbroken circle.

While Hoppes got Fidelitas up and running, he also began working at Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla. This is where the whirlwind starts. Around this time Hoppes was approached by different people about serving as a consulting winemaker. Liking a challenge and not minding the money, Hoppes said yes. Over the years Hoppes has consulted for a long list of wineries including Canon del Sol Winery, Goose Ridge, Ryan Patrick, Saint Laurent, and Gamache Vintners. More recently he has served as consultant for Cooper Wine Company, Hamilton Cellars, and Glencorrie.

Hoppes production across all of these wineries ranges between 15 and 20,000 cases annually, with 7,000 of this Fidelitas (2,000 of that the M100). Hoppes recently purchased a facility in the Tri-Cities to accommodate this level of production.

Fidelitas has a modest but compelling tasting room on Red Mountain (the winery also has a tasting facility at the must-visit Urban Enoteca in Seattle). The facility boasts expansive views of the area, including the winery’s estate vineyard. This three-acre site, which is in its third leaf and is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, was purchased from Washington wine pioneer Stan Clarke. Hoppes says when he first told Clarke that he was interested in buying the property, Clarke was taken aback. “He looked at me like I was crazy!” Hoppes says. Clarke eventually relented and sold the site.

The Fidelitas wines show why Hoppes is in such consistent demand. The winery’s lineup is of extremely high quality across the board – a testament to Hoppes’ skill as a winemaker. The wines include an exceptionally well-priced Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the state’s best Malbec, and compelling expressions of three of Washington’s finest vineyards – Ciel du Cheval, Champoux, and Boushey. All are of the Fidelitas wines are impeccably well balanced and beautifully constructed, displaying a consistent house style of rich fruit accented by silky oak.

Despite having his hand in a number of different wineries in addition to his own, Hoppes continues to exude excitement about his job. “The thing that I enjoy about winemaking, for me, it’s always an experiment,” Hoppes says. No doubt the whirlwind and experimentation will continue for many years to come.

Fidelitas Semillon Columbia Valley 2008 $18
Rating: + (Good) An appealing aroma profile of lemon and spice. Crisp, clean, and tart on the palate with abundant lemon flavors. 100% Semillon. Barrel fermented and aged in neutral French oak. 13.7% alcohol. 556 cases produced.

Fidelitas Optu White Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $30
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of spice, hay, lemon, and citrus. Crisp and tart on the palate with a rounded mouthfeel. Barrel fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). 56% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Semillon. Gamache and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 8 months sur lies in French oak. 14.8% alcohol. 361 cases produced.

Fidelitas Cabernet Franc Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Light herbal notes and cherry on a delicate aroma profile. A beautiful mouthfeel loaded with cherry fruit flavors and chocolate. Hangs on the finish. 100% Cabernet Franc. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.3% alcohol. 40 cases produced.

Fidelitas Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Compelling aromas of pepper, plum, spice, and black fruit. The palate brings abundant green notes along with pepper, spice, and citric acidity. Consistently among the best Malbec produced in the state. Stillwater Creek Vineyard (29%), Northridge-Milbrandt Vineyard (29%), Goose Ridge (24%) and Conner Lee Vineyard (23%). Aged 20 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.70% alcohol. 344 cases produced.

Fidelitas Merlot Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) A flagship merlot with red currant, licorice, raspberry, and spice on a wine to linger over. The palate has a dense core of fruit with beautifully integrated tannins. Hangs on and on at the finish. 100% Merlot. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.30% alcohol.

Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing aromatics of light herbal notes, dry chocolate, and spice. The palate is tart and full with black cherry and herbal notes accented by a pleasing acidic kick. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Champoux, Lady Hawk, Weinbau, Conner Lee, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.4% alcohol. 912 cases produced.

Fidelitas ‘Eight’ Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant high toned herbal notes along with cherry. A big mouthful of cherry fruit along with a solid backbone of tannins. A lingering finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Boushey, Champoux, Conner Lee, Latour, Red Mountain, Stillwater, Weinbau, and Windrow vineyards. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.7% alcohol. 190 cases produced.

Fidelitas Optu Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) A compelling aroma profile of char, dark berries, raspberries, and licorice. A rich core of dark fruit accented by oak spices. Huge inner mouth perfume on a prototype of a big, fruit-filled Washington wine. 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 9% Malbec, and 6% Petit Verdot. Weinbau, Champoux, Red Mountain, Conner Lee, and Boushey vineyards. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.9% alcohol. 568 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A unique aroma profile of mineral, earth, licorice, cherry, and roasted nuts. The palate is dense and dark with a lot of finesse, exceptionally well-integrated tannins, and pure black fruit flavors. A thirty-plus second finish. 53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.6% alcohol. 315 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Red Mountain 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Spice, high toned raspberries, mineral notes, floral notes, and light licorice on a reserved aroma profile. A dense, dark wine with firm but well integrated tannins. A gorgeously put together wine with a long life ahead of it. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.9% alcohol. 356 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008 $50
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Compelling aromatics of earth, mineral, slate, and raspberries. Dense, firm, and packed with rich fruit flavors. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.8% alcohol. 361 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Floral notes, raspberries, and penetrating red fruit on a compelling aroma profile. A big, dense, but impeccably well balanced wine with abundant cherry and red fruit flavors. An extended finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 24 months in French and American oak. 14.7% alcohol. 241 cases produced.

Fidelitas Merlot Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Aromatics of blueberries, earth, and candied red fruit. A showstopper on the palate on this big, rich wine with earth flavors and firm tannins. Give two years.

Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compelling, complex wine with char, toast, earth, high toned herbal notes, and an under layer of black cherry. The palate has winding black fruit flavors with herbal accents. The tannins are supple and perfectly integrated. An absolutely beautiful wine worth seeking out. Give two-plus years.

Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) Earth, vanilla, toast, and cherry on a wine that is still quite closed up aromatically. A big, chewy wine with abundant black cherry flavors. Needs time to come into its own but has it.

Putting pieces of the puzzle together at Januik and Novelty Hill

It’s hard to understate the level of experience that winemaker Mike Januik brings to bear at Januik Winery and Novelty Hill Wines. One off-handed comment on a recent visit sums it up perfectly.

Januik was in the midst of blending trials on the day of my visit. When asked how it was going he said simply, “Well, I’ve been doing this for twenty-seven years.” Far from a boast it was rather a simple statement of fact.

Of course, working such a long period of time is in and of itself not an accomplishment as much as a testament to longevity. However, few in the Washington wine industry can claim the extraordinary level of success that has followed Mike Januik throughout his career.

Januik first became interested in wine as an undergraduate in college. However, he didn’t get to drink very much wine at the time. “I never had any money!” he says with a trademark chuckle. Like many, Januik started off as a home winemaker. Looking back at it now he says, “I made some pretty disgusting stuff, but you have to start somewhere.”

Start somewhere he did, initially working as a backcountry ranger at Diamond Peak and the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. When his wife finished school, the couple moved to Ashland, Oregon and subsequently opened a deli and wine store. When his wife went back to school Januik decided to do the same, setting his sites on UC Davis.

Januik attributes his admission to the prestigious Davis enology and viticulture program as a “testament to being persistent.” He called the school continuously, both expressing his interest and inquiring about his application. Five people were admitted that year. One of them was Mike Januik. “I think the guy said, ‘If I don’t let this guy Januik in he’s going to hound me forever!’” Januik says.

Upon graduating he started working at the now defunct Stewart Vineyards. Of his first winemaking job Januik says, “We talked maybe about ten minutes, and the guy said, ‘You seem okay. You want a job?’ I really had no idea what I was doing.” Perhaps true but more likely is that Januik was then and remains now an extremely modest, down to earth person.

After working at Stewart, Januik went on to work at Langguth (also now defunct) and then Snoqualmie. Snoqualmie was then, and remains now, large by Washington standards, producing about 150,000 cases at the time. However, this would be just a small fraction of what he would go on to produce at Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Januik describes working as head winemaker at Ste. Michelle as a dream job. After ten years though, he decided to strike out and start his own winery. While he says the decision to leave was difficult, his wife was supportive. “She said, ‘When I first met you I never thought you’d have a job this long anywhere!’” Januik says with a chuckle.

Januik started out in 1999 crushing fruit at Waterbrook, where he made his first wines for his winery. That same year he also began consulting for Tom Alberg and Judi Beck on vineyard plantings at Stillwater Creek Vineyard – Novelty Hill’s estate vineyard. Januik made Novelty Hill’s first wines a year later and has continued to do so in the ensuing years.

For the first few years after he left Chateau Ste. Michelle, Januik continued to consult for the winery. “I think they thought I was going to end up in the poor house!” Januik says. The Januik/Novelty Hill facility was built in 2007, a stone’s throw from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

From the outside the building is austere, almost imposing. Inside it is spacious, beautiful, and above all highly functional. Januik was intimately involved in the design of the facility and the countless small details that facilitate top quality winemaking.

The facility is controlled by a computerized system that provides a graphical display of each of the winery rooms as well as each fermentation tank. Someone is automatically contacted if any of temperatures get above an acceptable level. Januik can check and adjust temperatures on-line from anywhere in the world. Each room also has its own CO2 sensor that pulls air in when need be to prevent mold from forming.

In addition to state-of-the-art winemaking equipment, the facility has a full kitchen and event staff, hosting about 50 weddings each year as well as numerous other events and functions.

The two wineries together make about 25,000 cases with one third of that Januik and two-thirds Novelty Hill. Remarkably, there are over 25 wines across the two wineries. While some might find this level of production and diversity intimidating, Januik enjoys working at scale. “Some people are better suited for making small amounts of wine. I like putting pieces of the puzzle together,” he says.

The results at both Januik and Novelty Hill speak for themselves. Januik has had more than a dozen wines featured in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 lists over the years, and the two wineries have built devoted followings. Of course, to coin a sports phrase, you’re only as good as your last vintage. The current releases below, however, only continue to build on Mike Januik’s long career of excellence.

Januik Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. Light aromas of spice, toast, and hay. A textured, lithe feel on a wine speckled with oak accents. 100% Chardonnay. Fermented and aged for 10 months in French oak. 751 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Januik Riesling Bacchus Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $NA
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of mango, floral notes, peach, and spice. The palate is full of pineapple and other tropical fruit flavors. 250 cases produced.

Januik Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Abundant red fruit-driven aromatics of bright raspberries, currant, and spice on a compellingly aromatic wine. Taste is plush and full of chewy fruit with soft tannins. 95% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Ciel du Cheval, Conner Lee, Klipsun and Weinbau vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak. 1,251 cases produced.

Januik Merlot Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Arresting aromatics of pure, high toned red fruit, earth, mineral, and floral notes. A hedonistically rich wine with dense, rich, silky fruit and fine grained, restrained tannins. A wine with an exceptionally long life ahead of it. 98% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in French oak. 199 cases produced.

Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A bit closed up and brooding at present but showing high toned herbal notes, spice, licorice, and black cherry. Rich and dense on the palate with abundant, penetrating dark cherry flavors and a long finish. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5%Merlot, 1%Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. Champoux, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain and Weinbau vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 1,597 cases produced.

Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Dark and brooding aromatically with plum, cherry, licorice, spice, mineral, and herbal notes. Dense with chewy fruit on a richly flavorful palate followed by an extended finish. Quite closed up at present. Give 2-3 years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 20 months in French oak. 14.4% alcohol. 377 cases produced.

Januik Syrah Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color with purple at the rim. Richly aromatic with char, bacon fat, orange peel, mineral, and toast. A big, opulent, intensely flavorful wine with a persistent finish. Beyond hedonistic. 100% Syrah. Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 14.2% alcohol. 15 cases produced.

Novelty Hill Viognier Stillwater Creek Columbia Valley 2008 $22
Rating: + (Good) Just a tinge of color. An aromatic wine with white peaches, floral notes, and honeysuckle. Rich and opulent on the palate with a textured feel and pleasing spice flavors. 96% Viognier, 4% Roussanne. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie in French oak for 6 months. 13.5% alcohol. 378 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Novelty Hill Chardonnay Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $22
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. Pleasing aromas of toast, mineral, buttery notes, and mango. A rich, spicy, silky texture. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie for 10 months. 100% malolactic fermentation. 13.5% alcohol. 1,222 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Pleasingly aromatic with toast, spice, butterscotch, herbal notes, and red and black fruit. The palate is big and intensely flavorful. A thoroughly delicious, rich wine with a lingering finish. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Stillwater Creek, Alder Ridge, Weinbau and Chandler’s Reach vineyards. 14.4% alcohol. 4,846 cases produced.

Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $22
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Toasty aromas of butterscotch, red currant, and blueberries. Rich and luscious on the palate with an exquisite balance of fruit and barrel providing a textured feel. A quality-to-price-ratio winner.

Photographs courtesy of Januik/Novelty Hill.

Fresh Sheet March 23rd 2011

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Betz Family Winery, Quilceda Creek Vintners, :Nota Bene Cellars, Cave B Winery, Maryhill Winery, and Ott & Murphy Wines.

Betz Family Winery

Any new set of releases from Betz Family Winery is worthy of anticipation. The spring releases are for the winery’s Bordeaux-style blends, the fall for its Rhone-style wines.

The 2008 Clos de Betz, the winery’s Merlot-dominant blend, has a slightly larger percentage of Merlot than in recent vintages, a sign of the continuing development of the rows the winery sources from at Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills. Winemaker Bob Betz says, “We’ve farmed the same rows there since 1999 and have seen a serious evolution of density and character of the vines. I saw this too in the early days of Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge Vineyard and the original Columbia Crest vineyards along the Columbia: ten to twelve years after planting the vines began producing sensational fruit.” This bodes well for Washington’s many young vineyards.

The Cabernet Sauvignon-based Pere de Famille, on the other hand, features a bit more Petit Verdot and a bit less Merlot than its 2007 counterpart. Betz describes Petit Verdot as a “future star in Washington.”

In keeping with recent vintages, the 2008 Clos de Betz is more immediately exuberant than its Cabernet Sauvignon-based counterpart. While still somewhat closed up, this Clos may be my favorite from the winery since the 2003 vintage.

Of note, berry weight was down a bit from 2007, so the winery made about 15% less wine. If you are interested in these wines, make haste as they will not last on the shelves long.

Betz Family Winery Clos de Betz Columbia Valley 2008 $48
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Stains the glass. Aromatics draw you in with smoke, char, blackberries, licorice, spice, and pencil lead. The palate is tight and brawny with a firm grip of tannins, focused fruit, and silky oak flavors. A rich, exquisite offering that strikes a careful balance between fruit and barrel, power and grace. Give 2-3 years. 63% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot. Red Mountain (45%), Horse Heaven Hills (28%), and Yakima Valley (27%). Aged 16 months in French oak (65% new). 14.6% alcohol. About 850 cases produced.

Betz Family Winery Pere de Famille Columbia Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Seductive aromatics of graphite, blackberries, char, spice, and high-toned fruit. Considerably more brooding and aromatically closed up than the Clos at present. On the palate, dark and chewy with exceptionally well integrated, fine grained tannins. As with the Clos, a beautiful demonstration of grace and power, with this wine in particular showing an incredible amount of grace. A lay-me-downer. Give three plus years. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot. Red Mountain (70%), Horse Heaven Hills (23%), and Yakima Valley (7%). 14.6% alcohol. About 900 cases produced.

Quilceda Creek Vintners

Quilceda Creek Vintners is Washington’s standard-bearer with more than thirty vintages under its belt and a long string of well-deserved accolades. In a sign of how well regarded the winery is, its 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon was recently served at a White House State Dinner for the Chinese president.

Among the many impressive aspects of Quilceda Creek is its consistent house style. The wines have a unique, often immediately recognizable profile. The 2008 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon continues the winery’s long tradition of excellence. While the 2008 Red Wine, to be released in the fall, is not the blockbuster that its 2007 counterpart was, it is still about as good a $35 wine as one will find out there.

Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $125
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Rich aromas of blackberries, mocha, licorice, earth, and spice. An opulent, expansive wine that opens up and spreads out across the palate. Beautifully structured with the tannins to go the distance. Capped off by an extended finish. 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot. Champoux, Klipsun, and Taptiel vineyards. Aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. 15.2% alcohol. Sampled at 68 degrees.

Quilceda Creek Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Abundant aromas of oak spice, blackberry, chocolate, cherries, and licorice on an appealing, classically Quilceda Creek aroma profile. The palate is rich and silky with the tannins slightly less assertive than in recent vintages. Dips slightly in the middle but picks back up and sails on to an extended finish. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. 15.2% alcohol. Sampled at 68 degrees.

:Nota Bene Cellars

Tim Narby of :Nota Bene Cellars is one of a number of commercial winemakers with roots leading back to the Boeing Employee’s Wine and Beermaking Club. Tim and his wife Carol Bryant started out as home winemakers, making their first wine from grapes with a 1986 Zinfandel. The couple decided to start a commercial winery in 2001. After having labeled their home wines NB after the first initials of their last names, they decided on the name :Nota Bene for the winery.

:Nota Bene is located in South Seattle and is one of a number of wineries in the South Seattle Artisan Wineries group. Narby sources fruit from a variety of top Washington vineyards, including Ciel du Cheval, Conner Lee, and StoneTree vineyards. The winery features a diverse array of blended wines with the Bordeaux-style blends the strength of the lineup.

:Nota Bene Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Wine Red Mountain 2007 $35
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Abundant wood spice notes along with red currant and licorice. Broad and expansive on the palate with focused red and black fruit flavors and chalky tannins. Alcohol shows through at times. 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 15.3% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Abbinare Columbia Valley 2006 $28
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Toasty, pickly spices on the nose along with red fruit. Palate is well put together with abundant red fruit flavors and herbal notes. 61% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec. Arianses, Conner Lee, Ciel du Cheval, Stone Tree, Kestrel View, and Verhey vineyards. 14.75% alcohol. 14.75% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Abbinare Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of spice, red currant, licorice, and a touch of cola. Palate has focused, rich red and black fruit flavors and chalky tannins. 56% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec. Arianses, Ciel du Cheval, StoneTree, Chandler Reach, and Verhey vineyards. Aged 21 months in French, American, and Hungarian oak. 15.1% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Merlot Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: + (Good) Abundant coconut aromas along with chocolate, dark fruit and spice. A plush feel on a palate concentrated with dark fruit flavors and soft tannins. Alcohol shows through at times. 100% Merlot. Aged 21 months in French (50%) and American oak. 15.7% alcohol. 15.9% alcohol. 50 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of toast along with herbal notes, pickling spice, pepper, vanilla, and dark fruit. On the palate, a flavorful wine with plush fruit, soft tannins, and a lingering finish. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Aged 21 months in French (67%) and American oak. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Miscela Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with spice, currant, whiffs of licorice, and dark fruit. Well stitched together on a luscious, broad palate that shows tart fruit flavors, grainy tannins, and a long finish. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon (Champoux, Kiona), 15% Merlot (Conner Lee, Ciel du Cheval), 15% Cabernet Franc (Chandler Reach), and 14% Malbec (Verhey). 15.4% alcohol. 175 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Nota Bene Cellars Una Notte Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: . (Decent) Aromatics of toast, spice, and chocolate covered raspberries. Palate is weighted and full of raspberry flavors with a slightly sour finish. 65% Grenache (Stone Tree), 32% Syrah (Stillwater, Stone Tree), and 3% Mourvedre (Kiona Heart of the Hill). Aged in stainless steel, French, and American oak. 14.8% alcohol. 60 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Nota Bene Cellars Mourvedre Kiona Heart of the Hill Vineyard Red Mountain 2007 $30
Rating: . (Decent) Abundant oak aromatics along with spice, dark fruit, and leafy notes. Palate is broad and expansive with grippy tannins. Has a slight bite on the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 100% Mourvedre. Aged 21 months in once used American oak. 15.8% alcohol. 25 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Nota Bene Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $30
Rating: . (Decent) Aromatics of blueberries, sweet spices notes, and licorice. Palate is tart and up front with a slightly sour finish. 84% Syrah (Stillwater Creek, Stone Tree vineyards), 8% Mourvedre (Kiona Heart of the Hill), and 8 % Grenache (Stone Tree). Aged 21 months in French and American oak (18% new). 15.0% alcohol. 270 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Nota Bene Cellars Syrah Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2007 $35
Rating: + (Good) Aromatics of blackberry syrup, blueberries, toast, and peppery spice. Palate is big, thick, and tart with a tannic lick. Alcohol occasionally shows through. 94% Syrah, 6% Viognier. Aged 21 months in French and American oak (50% new). 15.7% alcohol. 100 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery

Cave B Winery is located in George, Washington, a short distance from the Gorge Amphitheatre. Winemaker Alfredo ‘Freddy’ Arredondo, a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program, became head winemaker in 2007. Arredondo had previously worked as cellar master at Cougar Crest Winery in Walla Walla. Originally a personal chef, Arredondo has looked to make the Cave B wines more food friendly, notably by using less new oak.

Cave B has 140 acres of estate vineyards and 40 acres of apple orchards. These sites are managed by viticulturist Jeff Cleveringa. A destination winery, Cave B also has an on-site inn, restaurant, and spa. Also of note, Cave B is one of seven wineries located at Seattle’s Urban Enoteca.

The 2008 releases include the winery’s first varietal bottlings of Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Cave B Winery ‘Sagecliff 100’ Unoaked Chardonnay Washington State 2009 $18.50
Rating: . (Decent) Light in color. A moderately aromatic wine with spice, apple, floral notes, and tropical fruit. Palate is clean with a weighted feel that paints around the edges. An enjoyable, easy drinker. 97% Chardonnay, 3% Viognier. 13.5% alcohol. 393 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Viognier Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: . (Decent) Pale lemon yellow. Aromatics of floral notes, lemon drop, and mandarin orange peel. Palate is clean with abundant melon flavors. 13.5% alcohol. 293 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Riesling Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Aromatics of lemon zest, orange blossom, and light honey. The palate is pleasing and full with just a touch of sugar with a slightly minty finish. 13.1% alcohol. 1.1% Residual Sugar. 253 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Gewürztraminer Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $22
Rating: . (Decent) Aromas of white flowers and orange rind. Palate has a full feel but needs a bit more acidity to bring it together. 12% alcohol. 1.2% Residual Sugar. 120 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Cabernet Franc Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: . (Decent) Aromatics initially dominated by oak notes along with black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, and sweet spices. Palate is tart and dry with oak flavors occasionally coming to the fore. 84% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in 20% new American oak and neutral French oak. 14.7% alcohol. 290 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Malbec Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: . (Decent) Dark in color. A moderately aromatic wine with pepper, plum, spice, and light green notes. Tart on the palate with lemony acidity. 84% Malbec, 8% Syrah, and 8% Merlot. Aged 18 months in American oak (30% new). 14.1% alcohol. 145 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Syrah Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: . (Decent) Quiet aromatics of herbal notes, light black cherry, and oak spice. Palate is tart with dark fruit flavors. 80% Syrah, 4% Viognier (co-ferment), and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in second and third fill American and French oak. 14.8% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Winery Tempranillo Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: . (Decent) Quiet aromatics of spice, leather, and tobacco leaf. Palate is tart, almost sour at times, with abundant fruit flavors. 80% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in second and third fill French and American oak. 14.3% alcohol. 290 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maryhill Winery

Maryhill Winery is a destination winery located in the Columbia River Gorge at the Washington-Oregon border. The winery makes a broad lineup of 27 wines to support its outdoor concert series. This 4,000-seat amphitheater is adjacent to the winery, overlooking the river. One of the winery’s most popular offerings is its Reserve Zinfandel. Sporting 1.5% Residual Sugar, this wine is perhaps best considered a dessert-style wine as it displays a lot of sweetness. Maryhill produces 80,000 cases annually.

Maryhill Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2007 $18
Rating: . (Decent) Light in color. Abundant notes of char, marshmallow, and spice on an aroma profile dominated by barrel notes. Palate is tart with cranberry flavors and has a somewhat weighted feel. Aged 18 months in French and American oak. Gunkel, Tudor Hills, Milbrandt, and Alder Ridge vineyards. 13.2% alcohol. 1,410 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maryhill Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: + (Good) Abundant herbal notes along with cherry, bittersweet chocolate, green coffee beans, and sweet spices. The palate is tart and light bodied with an acidic kick and dry tannins. 100% Cabernet Franc. 56% Alder Ridge, 44% Gunkel vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (50% new). 14.8% alcohol. 236 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maryhill Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel Columbia Valley 2007 $30
Rating: . (Decent) Aromas of cherry cordial, red vines, sweet spices, toasted marshmallow, and candied cranberries. Palate is sweet and syrupy with lots of brown sugar and candied cranberry flavors. Almost reminiscent of a Port-style wine. 100% Zinfandel (67% Milbrandt, 37% Alder Ridge). Aged 20 months in French oak (70% new). 16.4% alcohol. 1.5% residual sugar. 1,018 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

Ott & Murphy Double Bluff Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $19
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Abundant raspberries, blueberries, spice, and light game notes on an appealing wine. Palate is well put together with rich, syrupy blueberry flavors and a slightly sweet finish. 46% Grenache, 44% Syrah, 7% Viognier, and 3% Cinsault. Spice Cabinet, Vineheart, Sugarloaf, and Coyote Canyon vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (20% new). 15.4% alcohol. 140 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Fresh Sheet March 18th 2011

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Grand Rêve Vintners, Maison Bleue, Waters Winery, Rulo Winery, and Kaella Winery.

Grand Rêve Vintners

In a short time Grand Rêve Vintners has made a very large impression on the Washington wine scene. The winery, founded by Paul McBride and Ryan Johnson, pairs some of Washington’s best winemakers with fruit from one of the state’s best vineyards – Red Mountain’s Ciel du Cheval (read a Focus Report on the winery here). A hillside vineyard above Ciel also bore its first fruit in 2010. More plantings are in the works.

Grand Rêve recently released three new wines – the 2007 Collaboration Series I made by winemaker Ben Smith of Cadence Winery; 2008 Collaboration Series II made by Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew Winery; and 2007 Collaboration Series IV made by Carolyn Lakewold of Donedei. All are stunning, hedonistic wines, perhaps the most impressive from each winemaker yet.

The Grand Rêve wines are sold via a mailing list with a limited amount held back for select retailers. These are wines worth seeking out – and cellaring. This is also a Washington winery whose mailing list is worth getting on as Grand Rêve is going nowhere but up.

Grand Rêve Vintners Collaboration Series I Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2007 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Arresting aromatics of floral notes, earth, chocolate, penetrating licorice notes, herbal notes, and a jumble of red and black fruit on a wine to linger over. The palate is dense, dark, and seamless with a firm texture of polished tannins. A hedonist’s delight. Give three plus years or decant extensively. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, and 11% Merlot. Aged 23 months in French oak (70% new). 14.8% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Ben Smith winemaker.

Grand Rêve Vintners Collaboration Series II Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A purple tinge at the rim. Leaps from the glass with game, earth, raspberries, red currant, and orange peel, along with floral and mineral notes. Aromatics so compelling its hard to take the first sip. A huge amount of inner mouth perfume. The wine is velvety with a firm grip of tannins and a long, lingering finish. Give 2 to 3 years or decant extensively. 48% Grenache, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 1% Viognier, 1% Roussanne. 14.8% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Ross Mickel winemaker.

Grand Rêve Vintners Collaboration Series IV Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A classic Carolyn Lakewold aroma profile of cherry cola, pencil lead, a giant dollop of licorice, and a cornucopia of red and black fruit. Dense and rich with a textured feel, abundant prune flavors, and an incredibly persistent finish. 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot. Aged in French (50%) and American oak. 13.7% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Carolyn Lakewold winemaker.

Maison Bleue Winery

Maison Bleue winemaker Jon Martinez started out making waves in Washington with a compelling lineup of white wines (read reviews of the 2009 releases here). However, as the winery’s new releases indicate, Martinez is equally skilled with the reds.

The 2009 Jaja Red Wine is a new addition to Maison’s lineup – a companion wine to the Jaja White. As I mentioned on Facebook, this wine is a steal at $20. The Gravière, from Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain, is also a new offering. This wine is fifty percent Syrah with the rest equal parts Grenache and Mourvedre. The 2009 La Montagnette Grenache is also from Upland (the previous vintage was from Alder Ridge). These two wines show that this tiny viticultural area is one to keep an eye on as an increasing number of winemakers focus on its fruit.

All of the 2009 Maison wines are youthful and exuberant with incredibly pure, rich fruit flavors. Impressively, La Montagnette and Gravière tasted as good or better after being open for five days, a sign that patience with these wines will be handsomely rewarded.

Maison Bleue Jaja Red Wine Yakima Valley 2009 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Bright aromatics of plum, raspberries, mineral, and a bit of earthy funk. The palate is richly flavorful – fresh, tart, and delicious with abundant raspberry and pomegranate flavors and a tart, acidic finish. 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah. 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Maison Bleue La Montagnette Grenache Upland Vineyard Snipes Mountain 2009 $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Brilliantly colored. Aromas of plum, blueberries, and raspberries along with herbal and mineral notes on a lightly aromatic wine that opens up with each swirl of the glass. Tart and richly flavorful with a persistent intensity on the mid-palate and a steely, acidic spine. Capped off by a lingering, fruit filled finish. This wine is still in its youth and will only get better with additional time in the bottle. 95% Grenache, 5% Syrah. 14.8% alcohol. 104 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maison Bleue Gravière Red Wine Upland Vineyard Snipes Mountain 2009 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) A moderately aromatic wine with high toned herbal notes, white pepper, wild blueberries, raspberries, chocolate, and plum on a subtle but complex aroma profile. Palate is rich and flavorful with tart, puckering, textured fruit along with licorice and spices. The fruit is incredibly clean and pure. Give time to fully blossom. 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 25% Mourvedre. 14.6% alcohol. 195 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Waters Winery

Waters Winery has made its mark over the years in part by offering a series of vineyard-designated Syrahs from three Walla Walla vineyards – Forgotten Hills, Pepper Bridge, and Loess. In a recent post on the winery, I noted that making single vineyard Syrah puts one at the mercy of the whims of each vintage. This has never been more apparent than in the last several years for Waters.

Frost significantly affected Forgotten Hills Vineyard in 2008, 2009, and 2011 – not allowing winemaker Jamie Brown to make vineyard-designated wines (the juice was instead moved into the Wines of Substance Syrah). The jury is still out on whether a 2010 Forgotten Hills Syrah will make the grade. Things at Pepper Bridge Vineyard have been similarly challenging.

This makes the winery’s current releases from the 2008 vintage all the more special. The 2008 Loess Syrah, from Leonetti Cellar’s vineyard, and its Pepper Bridge counterpart are a study in contrast. The Loess is considerably more earthy with thirty percent dry stems added back, contributing to the wine’s tannins and mouthfeel. Ten percent Viognier was also added. The Pepper Bridge wine is considerably more fruit-driven, while still demonstrating earth notes. Both exhibit Waters’ house style of high acid, low oak wines.

Waters Winery Loess Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) An appealing, brambly nose with abundant floral notes, orange peel, black olive, sea air, and savory aromas. Over time meat and mineral notes come to the fore. The palate is perfumed and full of fruit – more so than some of the recent vintages – along with earth flavors crisply etched by acidity. Give some additional bottle age and consume with food bring out its best. Syrah with 10% co-fermented Viognier. Aged 16 months in neutral French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 190 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Waters Winery Pepper Bridge Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with an under layer of dark fruit along with earth, olive, iron, and floral notes. The palate is lush with fruit with a textured mouthfeel accented by bright acidity. Capped off by a lingering finish. 100% Syrah. Aged in French oak (12% new). 14.1% alcohol. 210 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

Rulo Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $20

Walking the aisles at Trader Joe’s recently I came upon a pleasant surprise – a bottle of Rulo Winery’s 2007 Columbia Valley Syrah. Wine Enthusiast writer Paul Gregutt awarded this wine 96 points in the magazine’s August 1^st issue – quite an accomplishment for a $20 wine. “Could it possibly be that good?” a reader inquired when I noted on Facebook that I had picked up the bottle.

Yes. The 2007 Rulo Syrah is that perfect nexus of an outrageously good wine at an even more outrageous price. Better yet, it will only improve with additional time in the bottle. This wine is a shot across the bow of the state’s many $30+ offerings.

Rating: ** (Exceptional) A moderately aromatic wine with pure aromas of blackberry, raspberries, Dimetapp, dark chocolate, mineral notes, and herbs. The palate is incredibly, incredibly dense with rich fruit flavors, almost to the point of being impenetrable. Coats the palate while still remaining light on its feet. Only gets better with more time to breath. Give 1-2 years or decant extensively. 14.5% alcohol.

Kaella Winery Rosé of Sangiovese Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2010 $17

Nothing says spring like the rosés hitting the shelves. Here Woodinville’s Kaella Winery harkens in the warm weather with a 100% Sangiovese from Ciel du Cheval. This wine was recently featured by Gary Vaynerchuck at Wine Library TV on its 999^th show.

Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light cherry red color. Spice, strawberry, sour cherry, and bubble gum aromas rise up from the glass. The palate is off-dry and has a full feel with crisp acidity and a spice note on the finish. 13.2% alcohol. 1.65% Residual Sugar. 50 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.