Walla Walla Valley Report 2011 Part I

Below is Part I of a report from the Walla Walla Valley including wines from Rasa Vineyards, Mackey Vineyards, Fjellene Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars, and àMaurice Cellars. Read a .pdf version of this report here.

Rasa Vineyards

Rasa Vineyards continues to cut a path as one of the most impressive new wineries to emerge in Washington in the last several years. There is no let up with the wineries latest wines. In fact, the current releases are as good or better than any that the winery has produced.

Brothers Billo and Pinto Naravane have made several additions to the lineup in the last year. The first is adding a label called PB (for their first initials). These are not declassified Rasa wines but rather high quality juice that didn’t fit into the Rasa program. These wines offer extraordinary value for their price point.

For the 2010 vintage, which featured cooler temperatures and higher acidity, the Naravanes made a Riesling in more of an Auslese style than their thrilling 2009 The Composer Riesling. The resulting wine, named The Lyricist, has considerably more sugar but is beautifully balanced with acidity. The result is, once again, as good of a Riesling as is being produced in Washington State.

The Naravanes have also added a stunning new Bordeaux-style blend from DuBrul Vineyard (see barrel sample notes on this wine here). Billo Naravane first met Cote Bonneville winemaker Kerry Shiels at UC Davis. Naravane later met with Kerry’s father, DuBrul Vineyard owner Hugh Shiels. “An hour meeting turned into a seven hour thing,” Naravane says. At the time, Naravane did not yet know just how coveted DuBrul fruit was. “Hugh just laughed when I asked him about fruit,” Naravane says. He later received a call offering a small parcel and accepted without even asking the price.

The resulting wine, Creative Impulse, is named after the brothers’ creative urges, urges that were always contained by their parents growing up. The Naravane’s creative skills are on full display on this wine, which rivals the best Bordeaux-style blends coming out of Washington.

Note that Rasa Vineyards is now located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley in the facility formerly occupied by Hence Cellars.

PB Syrah Yakima Valley 2008 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) Extremely dark in color. Aromas of earth, black pepper, game, dark berries, and licorice. Deep, rich, tart, flavorful fruit with a hyper-extended finish. An extremely high QPR wine. 100% Syrah. Aged 21 months in French oak (25% new). 14.8% alcohol. 224 cases produced.

PB Syrah/Cabernet Kiona Vineyards Red Mountain 2008 $29
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Abundant aromas of licorice, soil, light herbal notes, and dark fruit. Big and bold on the palate with a firm backbone of tannins and rich fruit flavors. 67% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 21 months in French oak (33% new). 14.8% alcohol. 187 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Vox Populi Mourvedre Columbia Valley 2009 $45
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark and brilliant in color with a purple tinge at the rim. Aromas of chalk, white pepper, light game, and earth. A rich, textured palate with winding fruit flavors and a persistent intensity on the finish. 100% Mourvedre. 52% Minick, 48% 48% Alder Ridge. Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 89 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards QED Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Almost completely opaque. Intoxicating aromas of black olive juice, penetrating dark berries, game, floral notes, and whiffs of dark chocolate. The palate is textured and seamlessly put together with pure berry flavors and silky tannins. Capped off by a seemingly endless finish. 83% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier. Les Collines, Double River, and Minick vineyards. Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 675 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Principia Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Quite closed up at present but shows aromas of earth, game, and berries. The palate is lithe, seamless and elegant, filled with textured fruit flavors. An incredibly impressive wine with a long life ahead of it. Give 3-plus years. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Seven Hills, Lewis, and Portteus vineyards. Aged 30 months in French oak (25% new). 14.2% alcohol. 115 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Creative Impulse Red Wine Yakima Valley 2008 $95
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compelling wine with earth, dark, dark cherry, chocolate, and herbal notes. On the palate a beautiful display of richness and power, structure and delicacy. An extremely long finish. Only continues to pick up steam after days of being open. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot. Aged 30 months in French oak (60% new). 15.1% alcohol. 140 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards The Lyricist Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An extremely aromatic wine with a fresh twist of lemon with honey, lime, green apple, and floral notes. On the sweet side of off-dry but with laser-like focus and beautifully balanced acidity. An extremely long, crisp, lingering finish. An exclamation point on Washington Riesling. 100% Riesling. Bacchus, Kilian, and Dionysus vineyards. 13.3% full botrytis, 16.9% partial botrytis. 4.89% Residual Sugar. 12.3% alcohol. 217 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards

Mackey Vineyards is a new Walla Walla winery founded by brothers Roger and Phillip Mackey. Like many who have been captivated by the Washington wine scene, the Mackey brothers, “traded their dress suits for a tractor and a plow.”

Roger Mackey writes, “I think there is nothing more special than saying here, try my wine. It’s produced from my land.” Mackey Vineyard is located in a canyon in the southeast section of the Walla Walla Valley by a fork in the Walla Walla River. The winery also owns Frenchtown Vineyard in Lowden, Washington. In addition to these two sites, Mackey also sources fruit from Les Collines, Yellowbird, Sagemoor, and DuBrul vineyards.

Mackey Vineyards has a tasting room located in downtown Walla Walla. The wines are made by Billo Naravane of Rasa Vineyards.

Mackey Vineyards Syrah Estate Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. An appealing wine with char, blackberry, light game notes, mineral, and black tea leaves. The palate is soft and lighter bodied in style with black olive and umami notes and chalky tannins. 100% Syrah. Mackey Vineyard. Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new). 13.9% alcohol. 125 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of cherry, herbal notes, pencil shavings, and dry chocolate. Dry and light bodied on the palate with elegant cherry flavors, soft tannins, and a chalky feel. Aged in French oak (70% new). 80.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.7% Merlot, 4.9% Petit Verdot. Mackey Vineyard, Heather Hill, and Gamache vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (70% new). 14.5% alcohol. 148 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Concordia Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Like running through a field of wild flowers and berries eating a bar of dark chocolate. A perfumed palate that is deft on its feet with a silky structure, full of berry flavors, game, and mineral notes. Lingers on the finish. 77.4% Syrah, 12.9% Grenache, and 9.7% Mourvedre. Les Collines, Bacchus, and Minick vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (35% new). 14.9% alcohol. 370 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Off-Dry Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with red apples, tropical fruit, honey, and floral notes. Off-dry in style with a fair amount of sugar but well balanced by mouthwatering acidity. A very well-priced bottle of wine for this level of quality. 100% Riesling. Bacchus and Kilian Vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.1% alcohol. 167 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars

Fjellene Cellars, pronounced fyel-LAY-nuh, is a new Walla Walla winery. The winery is named after a word for mountains in Norwegian. Owner and winemaker Matthew Erlandson says that the winery is, “Dedicated to those who find solace in a place which most will never experience.”

Erlandson was an outdoor educator and guide for thirteen years at NOLS and Outward Bound in the western United States, British Columbia, and Central and South America before deciding to turn his attention to winemaking. He was working a job at Northern Arizona University when he took a three-month absence to make wine in Washington. Hooked, he gave his notice, sold his house, and moved to Walla Walla. Erlandson made his first wines in 2007 and had his first release this spring. The 2007 through 2009 wines were made while he was an assistant at Balboa and Beresan, and Erlandson credits winemaker Tom Glase with mentoring him. Erlandson moved into the space previously occupied by Trust Cellars, which moved to the airport region, at the beginning of the year.

Erlandson puts a particular emphasis on vineyard sources, saying, “I want my Cabernet Franc to taste like Cabernet Franc from Waliser Vineyard.” Erlandson uses a variety of excellent sources, including Les Collines, Yellow Jacket, Waliser, Two Blondes, and Candy Mountain. With the exception of two blends, the Fjellene Cellars wines are otherwise single vineyard and single varietal, including a rare Walla Walla Valley-designated Sauvignon Blanc.

Stylistically Erlandson says, “I love low alcohol, high acid wines. I want to be simple with the wines and not over complicate things.” Indeed, Erlandson’s wines are unusual from most of what can be found in the valley, with less emphasis on oak and overly ripe fruit flavors. Rather these wines are more acid driven and best enjoyed with food. Fjellene Cellars, which Erlandson owns with his wife Sarah, puts a particular emphasis on sustainability. Pumice and stems are composted; lees are recycled; old barrels are turned into artwork. Erlandson writes, “Although we are not claiming to be sustainable at this time, we are making every effort to minimize our waste while renewing our resources to lessen our impact on the planet. We believe that sustainability is not something you achieve, but rather a mindset that requires time and long-term goals.”

In a nod to his love of the mountains, the Fjellene label is an image of a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. With his new winery Matt Erlandson provides further evidence to my hypothesis that climbers make good winemakers – and provides one of the year’s more intriguing new wineries. This will be one to keep an eye on.

Fjellene Cellars produced 600 cases in 2008 and 2009 and 1,000 cases in 2010.

Fjellene Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley 2010 $22
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of pear, melon, and touches of tropical fruit. Fresh and fruit-filled on the palate with abundant grapefruit flavors. 100% Les Collines Vineyard Block 2. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. 125 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) Light cherry red color. Abundant strawberry, cherry, and light bubble gum notes. Crisp and tart with bright acidity with just the suggestion of sugar (0.89 g/L). 100% Syrah. 12.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced. NB: The only reason I don’t list this wine as ‘Recommended’ is the price point is a bit high compared to its peers. However, this remains one of my favorite rosés of the year.

Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with baker’s chocolate, herbal notes, and whiffs of roasted nuts. The palate is restrained on the oak and alcohol with tart, winding fruit flavors. Aged 21 months in French oak (25% new). 100% Cabernet Franc. Waliser Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars The North Col Blend Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of dusty chocolate, herbal notes, and tea leaves. Tart on the palate with dried black cherries and crisp acidity. An enjoyable, stylistic wine meant to be consumed with food. Those looking for big fruit and lots of oak flavors should look elsewhere. 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Waliser Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (50% new). 14.1% alcohol. 96 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars The South Col Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Aromas of dry chocolate, herbal notes, and a touch of the Rocks funk. Tart and light bodied on the palate with a big ball of fruit in the middle. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Franc. Yellow Jacket, Waliser, and Candy Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 192 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with medicinal notes, baker’s chocolate, herbal notes, and cherry. The fruit is restrained and the oak far in the background with a real acid blast that stitches this wine together. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Pepper Bridge. Aged 20 months in French oak (30% new). 14.3% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars

Sleight of Hand Cellars is movin’ on up like George and Wheezy – both literally and figuratively. The winery recently moved into a new location in the southern part of Walla Walla next door to Saviah Cellars and Beresan. The facility, which has a LARGE Sleight of Hand Cellars sign on the outside, is 2,000 square feet with a barrel space big enough to accommodate 4,000 cases annually. The winery is also building a new facility next door where production will take place. There is even a guest house on the property for wine club members.

While the new facility is much larger than the winery’s downtown tasting room, which is now inhabited by Kerloo Cellars, the vibe is still the same. On the day I visited the winery the Beach Boys Pet Sounds was playing, on vinyl of course.

The juice from winemaker Trey Busch continues movin’ on up as well. Current releases include a dazzling Chardonnay from French Creek Vineyard (Maison Bleue also makes a vineyard designated Chardonnay from this vineyard which provides an interesting comparison and contrast) and a new release from the winery – the Funkadelic Syrah. This wine is from third leaf fruit from Richard Funk’s vineyard in the Rocks region of the Walla Walla Valley. This is a compelling example Walla Walla Valley Syrah, showing the stylistic consistency from this southern valley region.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Magician White Wine Evergreen Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $17
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with peaches, white flowers, honey, and mineral. A full bodied wine that is tart and crisp with rounded fruit flavors, especially lime. This is your perfect, delicious summer wine. 85% Gewurztraminer, 15% Riesling. 12.5% alcohol. 1.1% Residual Sugar.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Enchantress Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of spice, butter, and Granny Smith apple. A layered wine with a creamy mid-palate and etched acidity. 100% Chardonnay. French Creek Vineyard. Barrel fermented and aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 90 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Magician’s Assistant Rose Columbia Valley $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light salmon color. Aromas of strawberry, melon, and light spices. Bone dry on the palate with crisp, incredibly fresh fruit flavors. An extremely enjoyable wine with great acidity. 100% Cabernet Franc. Black Rock and Chelle den Millie vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.2% alcohol. Recommended

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Spellbinder Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $19
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant cherry aromas along with tobacco and herbal notes on a wine with a lot of aromatic complexity for its price point. A rich mouthfeel on an incredibly clean, focused palate with refined tannins. A lingering finish. A screaming deal at this price point. 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 10% Sangiovese, and 9% Syrah. Blue Mountain, Red Mountain, Phinny Hill, Seven Hills, Lewis, Les Collines, Blackrock, Chelle den Mille, and Double Canyon vineyards. Aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.4% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Illusionist Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Appealing aromas of black cherry, coffee bean, a jumble of blue fruit, and mineral notes. The palate has incredibly clean, fresh, plump fruit flavors with dense, refined, supple tannins. Beautiful intensity of fruit with a lot of pure cabernet flavors. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah. Va Piano, Double River, Red Mountain, Frenchtown, Chelle den Mille vineyards. Aged 23 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Levitation Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color with purple at the rim. Abundant notes of violets along with smoked meats and a toasty top note. The palate is lithe and loaded with raspberries and red fruit flavors. A cranberry lick on the finish. 100% Syrah. Les Collines and Lewis Vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 298 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Funkadelic Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $60
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Aromas jump from the glass of earth, funk, mineral, black olive juice, ash, game, and a whiff of orange peel. A thoroughly delicious, delectable wine that shows the Rocks district of the Walla Walla Valley perfectly. 100% Syrah. The Funk Vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak (25% new). 13.9% alcohol. 95 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars

Winemaker Anna Schafer of àMaurice Cellars continues to impress with another set of extraordinary releases. It’s clear talking with Schafer that she has a strong attachment to her wines. Schafer says, referring to her new releases – some of which are currently out and the rest of which will be released shortly – “I don’t know about the new people showing up. You have to live with them for a year to get used to them.”

While it may take Schafer time to adjust, the new àMaurice Cellars wines are among the best the winery has produced. The entire lineup is captivating without a weak link in the bunch. Among the standouts is an extremely high quality Chardonnay. While Schafer’s Malbec is always one of the winery’s strengths – and among the best examples of this varietal in Washington – the 2008 vintage offering is bigger and brawnier, or as Schafer says affectionately, “a little monster.”

Schafer calls the Red Blend in the “heart of the winery” and if so the heart beats strongly. The 2008 vintage is named after Northwest artist Mark Tobey, the first American painter to ever have an exhibit at the Louvre. The 2008 vintage contains a healthy dose – 30% – of Cabernet Franc. Schafer says of the blend, “At first Cabernet Franc fights with the other kids at first and then it subsides.” The 2008 ‘The Tobey’ Red Wine is a stunner that punches far above its price point.

àMaurice Cellars Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with white peaches and light floral notes. The palate is full bodied redolent with peach flavors with a honeyed feel. Capped off by a long finish. 100% Viognier. Gamache Vineyard & Elephant Mountain Vineyards. Barrel fermented and aged in 2-year old French oak. 354 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) A light green tinge to the color. Appealing aromas of spice and light toast along with yellow apple. Palate is crisp, tart, and textured with a weighted feel and a long finish. Add àMaurice Cellars to the list of great Washington Chardonnay producers. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee and Lewis vineyards. Fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). 314 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Grenache/Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with a jumble of red and blue fruit along with light game, raspberries, floral notes, and a distinctive mineral note. Deliciously ripe, fleshy red fruit flavors on the palate lead to a lingering finish. Has a grainy, chewy feel. 88% Syrah, 12% Grenache. Boushey, Lewis, Minick, and aMaurice vineyards. Aged in 2-year-old French oak. 231 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark and inky with a purple rim. Abundant pepper and plum aromas along with spice. Rich and flavorful on the palate with great depth on a deliciously varietal wine. A big, brawny beast with a long finish. 100% Malbec. Gamache Vineyard. Aged in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars ‘The Tobey’ Red Wine Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Cabernet Franc pops at present with herbal notes, rich cherries, and high toned floral notes. A rich, layered wine with graceful, structured tannins. Huge and rich with focused fruit flavors. 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot. Sagemoor, Bacchus, Dionysus, Gamache, Weinbau, and Tokar vineyards. Aged in French oak. 14.6% alcohol. 492 cases produced.

Fresh Sheet July 14th 2011

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Vinyl Wines, Mannina Cellars, Long Shadows, and Woodhouse Wine Estates.

Vinyl Wines

Vinyl Wines is a unique project from winemaker Chip McLaughlin and Spencer Richards. The winery aims to bridge the gap between McLaughlin’s two passions – wine and music.

McLaughlin was introduced to the world of wine by his brother Erik. Erik has a long history in the wine industry, from a corporate wine buyer for Cost Plus, to restaurant owner, and most recently as Director of Wineries for Corliss Estates. “There were always a lot of bottles to open and try,” McLaughlin says.

McLaughlin also grew up around music, with his father a program director and on-air personality in Boise, Idaho, McLaughlin’s home town. In fact, McLaughlin’s birth announcement was a picture from the hospital on a vinyl record. True to these roots, McLaughlin plays guitar and piano.

It wasn’t until he moved to Walla Walla in 2009 that McLaughlin became serious about making wine. “I fell in love with Walla Walla the first time I went up there,” he says. McLaughlin started out making wine almost straight off, learning through “osmosis” from working with a number of the area’s winemakers.

These are Vinyl Wines’ inaugural releases. The first is the R³ , standing for Rick Ross Rosé – a hip hop artist who frequently raps about this much maligned wine. The EQ Grenache has a double meaning, both standing for equalization and the initials of one of McLaughlin’s best friend’s daughters. This is a seldom seen Walla Walla Valley designated bottle.

Each of the Vinyl wines has a code on the side of the cork. Using the code people can go to the winery’s website and download a playlist of songs from unsigned bands McLaughlin is interested in. Each bottle also has a short piece of music notation along the side, with the Grenache sporting the guitar lead to “Artist and the Ambulance” by Thrice.

Vinyl Wines made 110 cases in 2010.

Vinyl Wines R³ Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: + (Good) Bright pink colored. An aromatic wine with cherries, strawberry, and other red fruit along with bubble gum notes. Palate brings more fruit flavors than are often seen in rose along with well balanced by acidity with just a suggestion of Residual Sugar (0.4) that carries the wine across the palate to the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 13.3% alcohol. 91 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Vinyl ‘EQ’ Grenache Walla Walla Valley $25
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Light in color. Delicate aromas of tea leaves, cranberries, red berries, and orange peel. The palate is delicate and light-bodied but with a full, fleshy feel with abundant cranberry flavors. 100% Grenache. Cockburn Ranch. Aged in second fill French oak. 13.6% alcohol. 25 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars

Mannina Cellars’ winemaker Don Redman was working as a police officer in Los Angeles when he decided it was time for a change. “I decided whatever I could put in the back of my truck, that was what I was moving to Washington,” Redman says.

Redman started out working at a pulp mill in Bellingham before an opportunity at Boise Cascade brought him to Walla Walla in 2001. Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar came over for dinner one night and brought a bottle of his wine. For Redman, it was a revelation. “I was like, wow! That’s different,” he says.

Redman started out as a home winemaker in 2002 before renting space from Richard Funk at Saviah Cellars to make his first commercial wine. He named the winery Mannina Cellars after his mother, Roseanne Mannina, who emigrated from Sicily in 1942.

Mannina Cellars is located in the airport region of Walla Walla. Redman did his own work on the building including plumbing and painting to help keep prices down. “My wife and I just want to make a living,” he says. Redman also keeps the Mannina Cellars wines at very affordable prices, saying, “Right out of the shoot to price my wines high? Who the hell am I?”

While Redman initially sourced grapes from throughout Washington, he now uses fruit exclusively from Walla Walla. “I want to be a Walla Walla winery,” Redman says.

Redman planted a 29-acre vineyard out by Birch Creek two years ago. “I work it. I farm it. I do everything,” he says. While many have visions of what it would be like to work in a vineyard, Redman says with a laugh, “If it was one acre it would be romantic…”

All of the Mannina Cellars wines are well made, low oak and low alcohol wines with abundant tart fruit flavors. Far from cocktails, these wines need food to show their best.

Mannina Cellars produces 2,700 cases annually.

Mannina Sangiovese Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $22
Rating: + (Good) Dark in color. A lightly aromatic wine with high toned herbal notes, raspberries, and strawberries. Light bodied, tart and acidic on the palate. Drops off toward the finish. 92% Sangiovese, 8% Merlot. Aged 13 months in neutral French and Hungarian oak. 14.1% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars RoseAnne’s Red Walla Walla Valley 2008 $20
Rating: . (Decent) A pretty, lightly aromatic wine with herbal notes, red cherries, and light wood spices. Very tart on the palate with sour cherry flavors. 55% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Golden Ridge and Birch Creek vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Merlot Birch Creek Vineyards Walla Walla Valley 2008 $24
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) A lightly aromatic wine with sweet spices, vanilla, herbal notes, and high toned cherries. Tart on the palate with zippy acidity and grainy tannins. 91% Merlot. 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.7% alcohol. 135 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Cali Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $17
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic wine with red cherries, herbal notes, green notes, and kisses of black licorice. Tart and puckering on the palate with mocha flavors and an acidic kick. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 4% Sangiovese. Birch Creek, Pepper Bridge, Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Birch Creek Vineyards Walla Walla Valley 2008 $30
Rating: . (Decent) A lightly aromatic wine with herbal notes, green notes, and cherries. A fresh, clean wine with abundant, puckering cherry flavors on the palate. 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot. 13.9% alcohol. 92 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

At Long Shadows former Stimson Lane CEO Allen Shoup pairs top winemakers from around the world with fruit from some of Washington’s best vineyards. Here acclaimed Napa Valley winemaker Randy Dunn gives his interpretation of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon. As with the 2007 vintage listed below, this is always an intriguing bottle, showing more of the grape’s elegance and sophistication than its sheer power that is often on display.

Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with dried cranberries, raspberries, very light herbal notes, scorched earth, and peppery spices. The palate is full of concentrated fruit flavors, lush but far from over the top, with grainy tannins. A very pretty expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that will only improve with time in the cellar. Give one to two years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 22 months in French oak (90% new). 14.2% alcohol. 1,991 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kennedy Shah is a label for Woodhouse Wine Estates, which also includes Dussek, Darighe, Hudson Shah, and Maghee. Jean Claude Beck, whose familial winemaking roots date back to 1579, serves as winemaker here. The Kennedy Shah Reserve from DuBrul Vineyard is a rare bottle of vineyard-designated Riesling from this esteemed vineyard.

Kennedy Shah Reserve Riesling DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $25
Rating: . (Decent) A lightly aromatic wine with pear and lemon notes. Tart on the palate with a somewhat fat feel with abundant pear, lemon, and lime notes. Alcohol bleeds through at times. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 14.3% alcohol. 124 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Recent print articles and thoughts on Washington Chardonnay

The July/August edition of edibleSeattle contains an article I wrote titled ‘Liquid assets: Why Chenin Blanc is a grape worth saving.’ The article, which contains a list of recommendations, can be found at the following locations.

Also, the July edition of Seattle Metropolitan contains a short piece I penned on Chardonnay. As discussed in the article, many consumers have a love/hate relationship with Chardonnay. Part of the reason for this is that there is a lot of mediocre Chardonnay out there – and bad Chardonnay can be positively dreadful.

Washington sees its fair share of middling Chard. More recently, however, a number of wineries in the state have started to make excellent bottles. Read some recommendations as well as additional thoughts on the grape here.

In addition to the wines in the article, there are a few Chardonnays that I have had recently that deserve mention. The first is the new vintage of the Au Contraire Chardonnay from Maison Bleue (the article refers to the superb 2009 vintage, the first Chardonnay I ever purchased in abundance). As with previous vintages, this wine hails from French Creek Vineyard, which boasts 30-year old vines. The wine was fermented half in stainless steel and half in neutral barrels with partial malolactic fermentation (about 50%). The result is a textured wine that still retains its crispness and has bright acidity.

The next is Sleight of Hand Cellars’ 2009 The Enchantress Chardonnay – which I must say is quite aptly named. This wine also hails from French Creek Vineyard. In contrast to the Maison wine, the Sleight of Hand Chardonnay was fermented all in oak, using three to four year old barrels. The result is both an interesting contrast and an absolutely delicious wine in its own right.

An about face from these wines using stainless steel and neutral oak comes from Gorman Winery. The 2009 Big Sissy Chardonnay was barrel fermented using native yeast in 100% new French oak with partial malolactic fermentation. The fruit comes from Conner Lee Vineyard. True to the house style, this is a rich, big wine with a creamy palate, the likes of which is more frequently seen in California than Washington – at four times the price.

Feel free to leave comments on other Washington Chardonnays that have rocked your world.

Maison Bleue Au Contraire Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2010 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with mineral, spice, crème fraiche, and yellow apple. Palate is full on the entry and then pulls back and continues with a leaner style with mineral notes accented by a lemony acidity. A long finish on another impressive wine from this emerging star. 100% Chardonnay. Aged in neutral French oak (50%) and stainless steel with partial malolactic fermentation (50%). 13.2% alcohol. 408 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Enchantress Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of spice, butter, and Granny Smith apple. A layered wine with a creamy mid-palate and etched acidity. Barrel fermented and aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 90 cases produced.

Gorman Winery The Big Sissy Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Beautiful, compelling aromas of spice, butter, ripe apples, and tropical fruit. A rich, full wine with a creamy, textured mouthfeel and a long finish. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee Vineyard. Barrel fermented in 100% new French oak with partial malolactic fermentation. 225 cases produced.

Fresh Sheet July 6th 2011

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from J Bookwalter Winery, Cadaretta, Dowsett Family, and Idilico.

J Bookwalter Winery

J Bookwalter Winery is located in Richland, Washington. The winery was founded in 1983 by Jerry and Jean Bookwalter.

For many years Bookwalter focused its efforts largely on Riesling and other white wines. Their son John, who now owns the winery and serves as winemaker, recalls that when he came to work there in 1997, it was making a staggering ten different white wines. Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar said to him, “You guys need to reinvent yourself!”

This is exactly what John Bookwalter has done during his time at the winery. Bookwalter made his first wines “vine to wine” in 2000. Since that time his focus has been on making “finesse driven” wines, with a particular focus on blending.

One of John Bookwalter’s early wines from the 2002 vintage was called ‘Chapter 1.’ The book motif subsequently became a theme for the winery with names such as Foreshadow, Subplot (though not reviewed here this is a consistently high QPR wine), Conflict, and Antithesis.

From the 2000 through 2008 vintages Bookwalter worked with consultant Zelma Long. Starting with the 2009 vintage he has worked with top French winemaker Claude Gros. The results have been dazzling, with the winery’s current lineup competing with the state’s best. The Bookwalter wines are all rich and hedonistic, stylistic and age-worthy.

The winery has also been extremely successful in hosting music at the winery Wednesday through Saturday. The result is a destination winery with a lineup that can’t be beat. The winery also has a tasting room in Woodinville in the schoolhouse area.

Despite the winery’s success, Bookwalter remains humble. “I’m still in the rookie class of winemaking,” he says. Bookwalter promises to continue with his book-based wines with the occasional Chapter Series offering, saying with a laugh, “When I hit Chapter 7 I’m closing the doors and locking them up!”

J Bookwalter Winery makes approximately 12,000 cases annually.

J Bookwalter Winery Couplet Chardonnay-Viognier Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) The combination of few words fill me as much fear as these two – Chardonnay and Viognier. These two grapes are incredibly easy to foul up on their own let alone trying to blend them. However, there is nothing to fear with this wine from Bookwalter, one that beautifully combines the best that these grapes have to offer. An aromatic wine with floral notes, peaches, pear, and spice. The palate has abundant peach, melon, and apple flavors with crisp, mouthwatering acidity. 74% Chardonnay, 26% Viognier. Co-fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.5% alcohol. 1,184 cases produced. Recommended.

J Bookwalter Winery Foreshadow Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Pleasing, initially oak-dominated aromatics of toast and spice which give way to abundant cherry notes. On the palate a silky, hedonistic wine with rich fruit flavors and a lingering finish. Merlot 81%, Syrah 11%, Petit Verdot 3%, Malbec 3% and Cabernet Franc 2%. Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, Conner-Lee, Elephant Mountain, and McKinley Springs vineyards. Aged 18 months in new and used French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 1,468 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Foreshadow Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Pretty French oak spices along with herbal notes, black cherry, and licorice. The palate is full of rich fruit flavors with abundant oak accents and silky tannins. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Dionysus, Conner-Lee, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, McKinley Springs, and Elephant Mountain. Aged 20 months in French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 1,850 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Antithesis Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compellingly aromatic wine with a cornucopia of dark cherries, berries, and spice along with herbal notes. On the palate, a hedonistic, rich wine with incredible inner mouth perfume, density, and exceptional length. 45% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Conner Lee, Ciel du Cheval, and Dionysus vineyards. Aged 16 months in new and used French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 205 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Conflict Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Abundant notes of spice, earth, dark fruit, and licorice. A spectacularly rich wine that explodes across the palate, buffeted by soft tannins. A show-stopper of hedonistic delight. 66% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc & 1% Petit Verdot. 91% Conner Lee, 7% McKinley Springs, 2% Ciel du Cheval. Aged 20 months in French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 572 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Conflict Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intoxicating aromatics of spice, potpourri, blueberries, raspberries, and black fruit along with French oak accents. A delicious, fruit laden palate with silky tannins. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and 10% Malbec. Aged 20 months in new and used French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 208 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

J Bookwalter Winery Protagonist Red Wine Red Mountain 2007 $50
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) An aromatic wine with black fruit, dust, licorice, and scorched earth. Deliciously rich fruit on a perfectly put together palate with slightly assertive but still well integrated tannins. 69% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah, and 2% Petit Verdot. Ciel du Cheval (65%), Klipsun Vineyard (25%), Conner Lee, and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 938 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Protagonist Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) French oak aromas leap from the glass with toast and spice followed by waves of cherry, smoke, and licorice on a wine that immediately demands attention. Rich and intense on the palate with winding fruit flavors. Capped off by a long finish. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah. Conner Lee and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 146 cases produced.

J Bookwalter Winery Chapter Three Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $78
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An arresting wine with spice, licorice, earth, char, and black fruit. Stunningly rich and powerful yet with refined elegance. A wine that almost overwhelms the senses. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, and 7% Petit Verdot. Conner-Lee, Ciel du Cheval, Elephant Mountain, and McKinley Springs vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 207 cases produced.

Cadaretta

Cadaretta is owned by the Middleton family. The family’s roots date back to 1898 when they started a lumber business in Aberdeen, Washington. The family also owns California-based Clayhouse Wines as well as Buried Cane, all under the umbrella of Middleton Family Wines.

Cadaretta is named after one of the family’s schooners, used to ship timber down to California in the 1920s. The winery, which was established in 2005, is located in Walla Walla. An estate vineyard, Southwind, was planted in the Walla Walla Valley in 2008.

Acclaimed Australian winemaker Larry Cherubino recently joined the winery as Director of Winemaking. Brian Rudin serves as resident winemaker, with the Cadaretta wines made at Walla Walla’s Artifex. The winery does not currently have a tasting facility but is open at Artifex for events and by appointment.

Since the beginning, Cadaretta’s SBS – a Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon Blend – has been a consistent standout. This trend continues with the 2010 vintage. Indeed this wine is one of my favorite whites to date from the 2010 vintage with racy, mouthwatering acidity. The Windthrow is a Southern Rhone-style blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Grenache.

Cadaretta SBS Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon Columbia Valley 2010 $23
Rating: * (Excellent) A delicious, aromatic wine with gooseberry, mineral, and citrus notes. Palate has a full, rounded feel, full of white grapefruit favors with tart, mouthwatering, racy acidity. A very clean, extremely enjoyable wine. Oysters anyone? 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon. Spring Creek, Frenchman Hills, and Rosebud vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 14.1% alcohol. 820 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cadaretta Windthrow Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatically appealing with blueberries, red fruit, and spice. The palate is tart and full of plump fruit flavors. A lingering cranberry-filled finish. 36% Syrah, 29% Mourvedre, 18% Counoise, and 17% Grenache. Pepper Bridge, Stone Tree, Alder Ridge, and Alice vineyards. Aged in French oak (36% new). 14.6% alcohol. 110 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

Chris Dowsett at Dowsett Family Wines is serious about Gewurztraminer (see a previous write-up on the winery here and a recent post by Through the Walla Walla Grapevine on the winery here). Perhaps it is because Gewurztraminer was the first wine Dowsett ever made back in 1983? Perhaps it is because this grape can be so versatile with food pairings? Whatever the reason, Dowsett shows a dedication to the grape that borders on fanaticism – and he consistently crafts the state’s best. The 2010 Dowsett Family Wines Gewurztraminer is a thoroughly delicious wine with all of the grape’s floral notes and spice along with the bright acidity of the 2010 vintage.

Dowsett Family Wines Gewurztraminer Celilo Vineyard Columbia Gorge 2010 $22
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine that is like walking through a field of white flowers while holding a freshly cut grapefruit. Tart with racy acidity with loads of spice and grapefruit flavors. Some might find it almost a bit too tart for their taste – others might find it almost a bit too delicious. 173 cases produced.

I wrote about Idilico in a recent Five Under $15 piece. The winery is a sister brand to Pomum Cellars. With Idilico, Spanish native Javier Alfonso looks to bring Iberian peninsula wines to the masses. The 2009 Garnacha – if you want to see Alfonso bristle, refer to the grape as Grenache – hails from Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain.

Idilico Garnacha Washington State 2009 $20
Rating: + (Good) Leaps up with red fruit, crushed peanuts, and wood spice. The palate is tart, soft and fruit filled. Aged 12 months in neutral French oak. 14.0% alcohol. 74 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Looks to Hit the Right Notes

Tonight! June Virtual Tasting from 7-8pm. Read about how to participate here.

Tenor Wines is one of the more intriguing new wineries to come along in Washington recently.

The winery takes a unique approach in its offerings. While most wineries in Washington and elsewhere focus on making a particular lineup of wines each year – say Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, and Chardonnay – Tenor instead has a lineup that varies each year depending on what the vintage gives.

For example, in 2007 Tenor made a Merlot and a Malbec. In 2008, it made a Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah. Additionally, while many wineries blend in larger or smaller percentages of other varietals, the Tenor wines are 100% varietal. The intention is to show the true expression of that particular varietal in that particular vintage.

Winemaker Aryn Morell, who also serves as consulting winemaker at Matthews Estate, says his goal with Tenor is not just to showcase particular varietals but also to only offer “world-class” wines. By this he means that the wines compare favorably to the best examples from a particular vintage. The winery even guarantees this to be the case.

In addition to its 100% varietal wines, Tenor also makes a single Bordeaux-style blend. This wine is called 1:1, alternately meaning Chapter 1, verse 1 and symbolizing a “new beginning.” In contrast to the rest of its portfolio, the winery plans to make this Bordeaux-style blend each year.

In terms of approach, Morell says he puts a premium on balance and that his goal with Tenor is, “powerful refinement.” He says, “I want a wine that is powerful but doesn’t come off as a slap in the face.”

While Tenor focuses largely on single varietal wines, Morell believes the sum of these wines is just as important. “My hope is that the wines will be seen more as a collection than individual parts,” he says.

The winery is elusive about its vineyard sources, stating on its website, “For business reasons, we do not disclose the names of our vineyard partners.” Morell believes, however, that focusing in the vineyard is critical. He travels to eastern Washington approximately 30 times a year to work with the winery’s sites.

The Tenor project is nothing if not ambitious – a new winery with price points that compete with some of the state’s best. While this would seem to be a particular challenge given the current state of the economy, Tenor’s initial releases are nothing if not impressive.

As one might expect, Tenor is starting off slowly, making 270 cases in 2007, increasing to 560 in 2008, and 610 in 2009. The 2010 numbers are still being determined. The winery recently opened a tasting room in the Warehouse District of Woodinville.

Tenor Wines Malbec Columbia Valley 2007 $48
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark to the point of being opaque. Brooding aromatics of plum, high toned pepper, spice, and licorice. On the palate a big, rich, delicious, beautifully polished wine with concentrated fruit flavors and a firm backbone of tannins. A seemingly endless finish. A beautiful mixture of power and finesse with a long life ahead of it. 100% Malbec. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 38 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $48
Rating: ** (Exceptional) The aromatics are arrestingly complex with licorice, coffee bean, a jumble of red and black fruit, and high toned oak spices. The palate is big and beautifully rich with a cornucopia of fruit flavors. Rich and opulent while retaining great subtlety. Capped off by a long finish. A shot across the bow of the state’s top Merlots. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 78 cases produced.

Tenor Wines 1:1 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $78
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A big dollop of licorice, black fruit, pencil shavings, and spice on a complex, detailed aroma profile where the layers keep coming. On the palate, a gigantically big wine with rich black fruit flavors and a big lick of tannins. A beautiful balance of grace and power. Give three years. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 10% Malbec. Aged 21 months in new French oak. 141 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $58
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intensely dark in color with purple at the rim. Aromatics pop with olive, mineral, smoke, and black fruit. A textured, rich palate with a compelling mouthfeel an beautifully integrated tannins. Big while never quite being over the top, this wine ramps up and sails on the finish. 100% Syrah. Aged 17 months in 500L French oak barrels. 15.0% alcohol. 108 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $58
Rating: * (Excellent) Locked up tightly at present with licorice, pencil lead, and high toned red fruit. The palate has generous amounts of fruit while remaining deft on its feet. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 165 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $78
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Enticing aromas of pencil box, high toned herbal notes, black cherries, and cranberries. Simultaneously big and refined on the palate with the structure for the long haul. Give two plus years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 21 months in new French oak. 152 cases produced.

June’s Five Wines Under $15

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Idilico is a sister brand from winemaker Javier Alfonso of Pomum Cellars. The winery is named after a bull in Barcelona that survived a fight on September 21, 2008 and was subsequently pardoned for its brave performance – a rare occurrence.

This is the winery’s first release. Alfonso says his goal is to add as many Washington-grown Spanish varietals as possible (look for a review of the winery’s Garnacha in an upcoming Fresh Sheet). He says, “We want consumers to experiment and reach out to new things and keep an open mind. We encourage this by keeping prices reasonable so the consumer doesn’t feel they are wagering too much on a single bottle.”

Albariño is a fairly rare varietal in Washington. Grapes for this wine come from a 6-acre vineyard in the Yakima Valley north of the Prosser. The site, in its third leaf and bearing its first fruit in 2010, was planted by the Den Hoed brothers. With 2010 a challenging growing year throughout Washington, the yield from these vines was a paltry one ton per acre. The result, however, is the perfect summer white – crisp, refreshing, and well priced.

I wrote recently of Hestia Cellars‘ excellent 2009 vintage Chenin Blanc. The 2010 vintage, while stylistically considerably different with less obvious lees influence, is every bit as delicious. However, due to the difficult growing season – especially for white grapes – a mere 200 cases of this wine were produced from the winery, a fraction of their normal production. This one will not last long.

Kyra Wines was founded by Kyra and Bruce Baerlocher in 1999. That year the Baerlochers purchased an apple orchard on the Wahluke Slope and converted half of it to wine grapes. Kyra Wines had its first commercial release with the 2004 vintage. Since that time, Kyra Baerlocher, who has a bachelor’s degree in bacteriology from the University of Idaho, has shown a knack for producing enjoyable, well priced wines. A consistent standout in the lineup is the winery’s Chenin Blanc, which hails from Harold Pleasant Vineyard.

OS Winery is named after founders Bill Owen, who serves as winemaker, and Rob Owen. The winery is one of a number in the South Seattle area that together comprise the South Seattle Artisan Wineries. The winery’s 2007 Red Wine comes from declassified barrels and is a quality bottle at this price point.

The g3 White Wine comes from Goose Ridge Winery. The winery – which boasts a 1,400 acre vineyard – was founded in 1999 by the Monson family. Winemaker Kendall Mix, previously of Corliss Estates, joined the winemaking team in April of 2010. The Goose Ridge g3 is an interesting blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Viognier, and Riesling.

Idilico Albarino Washington State 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing, perfumed aromas of white flowers, green apple, and spice. Palate is crisp and clean with the hallmark brisk, tart, lemony acidity of the 2010 vintage. Truly summer in a glass. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 140 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant, ripe Asian pear aromas along with lemon rind and white grapefruit. Palate is crisp and lemony with mouthwatering acidity. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kyra Wines Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2010 $12
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Almost water white. Pleasing aromas of hay, honeydew melon, and whiffs of pineapple. Rounded, crisp, and tart. An extremely enjoyable wine that is just a tad off-dry but with enough acidity to make it seem less sweet than the RS would indicate. 100% Chenin Blanc. Harold Pleasant Vineyard. 11.5% alcohol. 1.8% Residual Sugar. 402 cases produced.

OS Winery Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $15
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Abundant fresh berries along with herbal notes and bittersweet chocolate. Ripe and tangy, full of cherry flavors that coat the tongue. Gets a little tart at times but overall a big value winner. 41% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. 14.7% alcohol. 450 cases produced.

Goose Ridge Vineyards g3 White Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $14
Rating: + (Good) A pleasing aroma profile of floral notes, toasty spice, butter, lemon, green apple, pineapple, spice, and hay. Palate has a creamy, full feel and abundant citrus flavors. The oak is not shy but overall a very enjoyable, well-priced wine. 47% Semillon, 31% Chardonnay, 15% Roussanne, 6% Viognier, and 1% Riesling. 13.7% alcohol. 304 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

May’s Five Wines Under $15

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Chenin Blanc is a rare beast in Washington. The grape was once widely planted but a mere 233 acres remained as of 2010. Interestingly though, many of the remaining vines date back decades.

Such is the case with Hestia Cellars 2009 Chenin Blanc. This wine hails from Andrews Ranch Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills from vines planted more than thirty years ago. The result is a very pretty, nuanced wine with layers of complexity. Look for an upcoming article on Chenin in the July/August edition of edibleSeattle.

Finding Chardonnay under $15 can be a tricky venture as one never knows if they’ll find an oak-chipped, buttery beast or something leaner and more nuanced in style. Barnard Griffin’s Tulip Series Chardonnay is in the latter category and is an extremely enjoyable wine at this price point.

Wines labeled as ‘sweet’ makes some swoon and other recoil. Clearly there is a market for sweet wines. To wit, this is Pacific Rim’s largest production wine at 90,000 cases. Unfortunately though for many people sweet wines have gotten a bad name due to the numerous, cloying white wines that are heavy on sugar and low on acid.

The 2009 Pacific Rim Sweet Riesling is about as far as you can get from that wine. Though clocking in at 8.4% Residual Sugar – and a mere 9% alcohol – the acidity more than keeps the sugar in check here. The result is a thoroughly delicious wine that makes for a perfect pairing with spicy food. It is a steal at $11.

A Washington Malbec under $15 is completely unheard of. In fact, I do not know of another outside of this wine. Malbec is consistently Washington’s most expensive grape at about $1,600 per ton in 2010. Most of the resulting varietally labeled wines have price points of $30 and up. Here Hudson Shah – part of Woodhouse Wine Estates – offers a bottle that comes in at a mere $12. Though not a prototypic Washington Malbec, it is an enjoyable red wine and the price is right.

The Envious Winemakers Woodinville White is a companion wine to the popular Woodinville Red. This non-vintage wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris.

See previous Five Under $15s here.

Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale golden color. Leesy aromas along with straw, nectarine, and lemon. Palate has a weighted, textured feel with layers of complexity. Sample provided by winery. Andrews Ranch Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13% alcohol. 450 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Barnard Griffin Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $14
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with spice, lemon, apple, and melon notes. The palate is crisp and tart with a rounded mouthfeel. Apple notes linger on the finish.

Pacific Rim Sweet Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $11
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine with floral notes, honey, red apple, jasmine, and tropical fruit. The palate is rich with fruit and sugar, beautifully accented by acidity. Walks the balance beam almost perfectly. Residual Sugar 8.4%, pH 2.97, TA: 0.78. 9% alcohol. 90,000 cases produced.

Hudson Shah Malbec Wahluke Slope 2008 $12
Rating: . (Decent) Light in color. A moderately aromatic wine with spice, cherry, and plum. The palate is light bodied with abundant tart cherry flavors. Not a prototypical Washington Malbec but a pleasing wine and the price is right. 100% Malbec. Konnowack Vineyard. Aged 18 months in French oak (45% new). 14.8% alcohol. 840 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Envious Winemakers Woodinville White Table Wine Columbia Valley NV $13
Rating: . (Decent) Abundant pear, apple, and light tropical fruit notes. On the palate, a mix of lemon and lime flavors. Alcohol shows through at times. 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Pinot Gris. 14.0% alcohol.

Unsung wineries – Woodinville Wine Cellars

Woodinville Wine Cellars is one of Washington’s unsung wineries – one that consistently produces high quality wine yet remains largely below the radar.

The winery was founded by Stan Barrett. Barrett is President and CEO of Art Culinaire, sole US distributor for Lacanche professional cooking ranges. Several of these ranges are in use at the winery, which places a premium on the experience of wine, food, and the family table.

The facility, which was previously used for Silver Lake’s sparkling production, was initially a co-op for a group that is now a who’s who of Woodinville, including Mark Ryan, Gorman, and Stevens. Woodinville Wine Cellars was initially one of those wineries and had its first release in the 2002 vintage.

Winemaker Sean Boyd started out in the wine business working at a wine shop in California. From there he traveled the globe working at wineries in such far flung places as Spain, Portugal, and Australia before finally settling in Washington.

Boyd’s work in Australia included a stint at Penfolds under winemaker Daryl Groom. “I went there in 1991 and got the wine bug bad,” he says. Of working at Penfolds Boyd says, “It was harder than I’ve ever worked in my life.”

After moving to Washington Boyd worked for a number of years at Pete’s Wine Shop in Bellevue. He began working at Woodinville Wine Cellars part-time in 2002 as assistant winemaker. He was hired full-time in 2005.

All of Boyd’s wines at Woodinville Wine Cellars have a distinctive style with cedar and black tea notes and tart, intense, lingering fruit flavors. Each of the wines harkens to Bordeaux more so than many found in Washington. All boast excellent aging potential.

While the winery itself is located in an office park, the setting is considerably more scenic than most in the area. Little Bear Creek gurgles by outside the winery and a lawn with picnic tables is an ideal place to enjoy a glass or two on a summer day.

Woodinville Wine Cellars makes 3,500 cases annually.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of spice, pear, tropical fruit, and apple. Tart and clean with an acidic kick and a full mouthfeel. Artz (60%) and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged in stainless steel (75%) and French oak. Aged 1 month sur lee. 13.9% alcohol. 600 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Little Bear Creek Red Wine Columbia Valley $20
Rating: + (Good) Appealing aromas of pepper, spice, and high toned black cherry on a wine that calls out to Bordeaux. The palate is full of chewy fruit, tea leaves, and spice. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Stillwater Creek, Conner Lee, Meek, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (60% new). 14.5% alcohol. 549 cases produced. Recommended.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Brilliantly colored with a glass staining purple tinge. Very pretty notes of vanilla, smoke, black tea, char, cherry, and a whiff of licorice. A tacky feeling wine with a tart crispness. A persistent finish. 100% Syrah. Stillwater Creek, Chandler Reach, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (100% new). 14.8% alcohol. 167 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Indomitable Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Alluring aromas of licorice, black tea, black cherry, vanilla, and spice on a wine to linger over. A beautifully understated wine that is restrained and elegant with pure, intense, chewy fruit flavors. Beautifully balanced with a thirty-plus second finish. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 11% Malbec. Conner Lee and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (78% new). 14.3% alcohol. 220 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Compelling aromas of black tea leaves, mocha, black cherry, and bright, penetrating aromas of licorice and cedar. Breathtakingly beautiful on the palate with winding cranberry flavors, puckering acidity, intense fruit flavors, and graceful tannins. An extended finish with lingering spice notes. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stillwater Creek (50%), Conner Lee (25%), and Dineen (25%). Aged 26 months in French oak (100% new). 14.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars O.M.O Odd Man Out Red Will Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $36
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Stains the glass. Bright aromas of cedar, spice, light green notes, berries, and toasty spice. A big, rich, tannic wine with abundant cherry fruit flavors and a zing of acidity. A long finish with abundant spice notes. 67% Petite Verdot, 33% Malbec. Aged 22 months in French oak (100% new). 14.8% alcohol. 76 cases produced.

Pamplin Family Winery – The joy of discovery

Wines like the Pamplin Family Winery JRG Red Wine are part of what makes drinking wine so exciting – the joy of discovery.

Robert Pamplin Jr. founded Pamplin Family Winery in 2007 in Dundee, Oregon with the goal of “making the best Bordeaux varietal wines from the Pacific Northwest.” While this may seem an audacious goal, Pamplin’s life is nothing if not marked by success and accomplishment.

Born in August, Georgia, Pamplin seems to have lived many lives rolled into one. Pamplin’s resume is as long as it is diverse. He holds three Bachelors degrees (Business and Administration, Accounting, and Economics), an MBA, a Master of Education, a Ph.D. in Business Administration, and a Doctor of Ministry.

Pamplin’s business experience is equally long. He is Chairman, President and CEO of R.B. Pamplin Corporation, which oversees milling, mining, media, and other interests. His Columbia Empire Farms focuses on berries, hazelnuts, alfalfa, and cattle. He was founder and senior pastor of Christ Community Church in Newberg, Oregon (he has since retired). His foundation owns Pamplin Historical Park in Virginia. His 13 books include One Who Believed and A Portrait of Colorado. Did I mention that he holds a black belt in Kempo Karate? You get the picture.

Pamplin started out in the wine business in 1997 purchasing Oregon’s Chateau Benoit. The winery was subsequently renamed Anne Amie Vineyards after Pamplin’s two daughters. This winery focuses on Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

With an interest in founding a separate winery focused on Bordeaux blends, Pamplin looked to the vineyards of Washington State. For its wines, Pamplin Family uses top sources including Klipsun, Seven Hills, Canoe Ridge Estate, and Wallula for the 2008 vintage. The winery has since added Ciel du Cheval, Tapteil, Champoux, and Alder Ridge.

Robert Henry serves as Pamplin’s winemaker. Henry started out as a research chemist in the pharmaceutical industry before a career change brought him to the world of wine. His first job was as a cellar rat at Virginia’s Horton Vineyards. After studying viticulture and plant science at Fresno State, Henry went on to work for six and a half years at Pahlmeyer Winery as assistant winemaker before joining Pamplin.

Art North, Pamplin’s son-in-law, says of the winery, “We are, first and foremost, wine enthusiasts. As a result, we approach winemaking from a consumer perspective – handcrafting wines for true wine fans, not from a business-directed approach with specified annual production goals.” Indeed, Pamplin’s production is microscopic. 370 total cases were produced in 2008, the winery’s second vintage.

Pamplin makes two wines, a Proprietary Red Wine, which is released in the fall, and a JRG Red Wine – reviewed below. The JRG is named in tribute to Pamplin’s three grandson’s Justin, Robert, and Grant.

North says one of the winery’s goals is to, “over deliver on quality for the given price point.” With the 2008 JRG Red Wine, the winery surely succeeds. The 2008 JRG is one of the more attention getting wines I have tasted this year, not for it’s brashness or brawn, but for its subtlety. The fruit flavors are soft and textured. The oak is pleasantly restrained. The result is a thoroughly delicious, sophisticated wine.

You never know what you’re going to find when you open a bottle of wine from a winery you are unfamiliar with. Coming across wines like this is one of the things I look forward to most.

Pamplin Family Winery JRG Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. A pleasingly aromatic wine marked by brioche, plum, black cherry, wood spice, and incense. Palate is medium bodied with tart, focused cherry fruit flavors that linger on a long finish. An impressively throttled back wine. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot. Seven Hills, Klipsun, Canoe Ridge and Wallula vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (46% new). 14.7% alcohol. 205 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Merlot strikes back!

In 2004 the movie Sideways seemingly dealt a deathblow to Merlot for a generation of wine drinkers. In the movie, the character Myles famously states, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f#!ing Merlot!” Merlot sales subsequently dropped and Pinot Noir, the character’s preferred wine, correspondingly rose.

Why did Myles malign merlot? With good reason. Merlot, especially when made cheaply and at high volume, can be light, fruity and inoffensive – but also entirely uninteresting. There are millions of gallons Merlot made in a style that is essentially a red wine for white wine drinkers.

Washington State was not immune from the so-called ‘Sideways effect.’ For many years Merlot was the grape that Washington was looking to hang its hat on. Washington Merlot is a different beast than that found to the south in California. Here the grape can be as tannic if not more tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon while retaining the fresh red fruit flavors the grape is known for.

As Washington looked to establish an identity for itself around a particular varietal, Merlot seemed an obvious choice. Once things went Sideways, the search for a signature varietal continued.

Although most say the Sideways effect was temporary in terms of sales, Merlot still has a big hill to climb to get back to respectability. Consumers now think they aren’t supposed to like Merlot, otherwise they are unsophisticated. To wit, I have repeatedly blind tasted out-of-town friends on Washington State Merlot. They have in almost all cases thought that the wine was Cabernet Sauvignon (a cool grape) and liked it – until I told them that it was Merlot (a not so cool grape). Then their enjoyment suddenly waned.

With a lot of mediocre wine out there on the shelves, the only way for Merlot to make a comeback in Washington and elsewhere is for the wines themselves to change people’s minds one bottle at a time. The 2007 Merlot releases from Northstar Winery seem destined to do just that.

Northstar is part of Ste Michelle Wine Estates’ ‘string of pearls.’ The winery was founded in 1994 with the goal of creating the world’s best Merlot. While the winery has had numerous successful and critically acclaimed vintages, the 2007 vintage wines perhaps reach the closest to these aspirations.

2007 was a spectacular vintage in Washington State where all of the elements lined up to produce top quality Merlot. The weather was hot and even and the growing season was long. In addition to exceptional growing conditions, several changes were made at Northstar that also seem to have improved the resulting wines.

This was the first vintage Northstar used a sorting table, which winemaker David Merfeld said both cleaned up the fruit and allowed him to do whole berry fermentation on 40-60% of the grapes. Merfeld also dialed back the oak and kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower with the goal of softening up the tannins.

Northstar makes two Merlot bottlings each year – one from the Columbia Valley and one from the Walla Walla Valley. Merfeld describes these wines as, “two different animals.” The Columbia Valley offering is designed to be more crisp and dense, the Walla Walla Valley wine more sleek and seductive.

For each wine, Northstar gets the pick of the litter from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s extensive vineyard sources. The Columbia Valley Merlot comes from 14 separate vineyards and 18 different blocks within these vineyards. The 2007 Walla Walla Valley offering includes Merlot from Anna Marie Vineyard, near Seven Hills, and Loess, one of Leonetti’s estate vineyards.

Northstar always tries to walk a balance beam between the here-and-now crowd and those looking for long-term cellar potential. Merfeld says, “I think we nailed it in 2007.”

Nail it the winery did. These are not your mother’s Merlots. The 2007 Northstar Merlots are both muscular, opulent, hedonistic wines, showing extremely well now but promising to thrive for many years in the cellar. The Walla Walla Valley offering in particular is a stunner that is bound to change a lot of minds about Merlot. The integration of tannins in these wines is exceptional. Both are about as good as it gets from Washington – or anywhere else for that matter. Taken together with other top offerings from around the state, they are proof positive that Washington Merlot at its best is simply too good to ignore.

Northstar Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with incense, cherry, red currant, black fruit, whiffs of coconut, and mocha. Broad, tart, and lush on the palate with a muscular fruit profile and ripe, well-integrated, fine grained tannins. A deliciously long finish. 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Aged 18 months in French oak (60% new). 14.7% alcohol. 11,500 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Northstar Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Leaps from the glass with complex aromas of earth, black tea, black fruit, cranberry, raspberry, licorice, chocolate, spice, incense, and mocha. A thick, dense, muscular wine with rich fruit flavors and exceptionally well-integrated, silky tannins. Capped off by a hyper-extended finish. An exclamation point for the varietal that is bound to change a lot of minds about Merlot. 78% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot. Aged 18 months in French oak (56% new). 14.7% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.