Cabernet is king at Abeja, but others vie for the crown

What follows is a section of my 2010 Walla Walla Spring Release Report. The report will be published in its entirety in .pdf form after the last entry is posted to the blog. See previous posts here.

Since Abeja‘s first release from the 2001 vintage, the winery has established itself as one of Washington’s premier producers of Cabernet Sauvignon – the ‘King of Grapes.’ While the winery also makes limited bottlings of Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Viognier – which are also consistently standouts that demand attention – Abeja’s mission is Cabernet Sauvignon, which accounts for the majority of its production.

Among the many things to look forward to following any great vintage, such as 2007, are the releases from the best wineries. While almost across-the-board high quality fruit guarantees excellent wines from numerous producers, great vintages are where the best wineries shine and create something truly special. Abeja’s 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was therefore a wine to be anticipated.

Winemaker John Abbott has seventeen years of experience making wine in Washington State and says that 2007 stands as one of the finest vintages during this time period. Abbott says of the vintage, “It is my second favorite vintage behind 1999 since I started making wine in Washington in 1993. The 2007 reds have big structure but still have finesse.”

With great vintages, sometimes everything comes a bit more slowly. Patience is required. Abbott says, “I found that the Cabernet took longer to reach flavor maturity on the vine, longer in the fermenter to achieve the balance we look for before pressing, longer to age in the barrel, and a bit longer to show bottle bouquet after bottling.”

Despite this – in fact because of it – the 2007 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine worthy of both patience and anticipation. Still tightly wound, the wine shows itself slowly but powerfully with smoke, brambly berries, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate is rich and intense with layer upon layer of fruit. Drinking well now, the wine promises years of cellaring potential and is easily among the best Cabernets from the 2007 vintage.

Though drinking the 2007 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon may feel a bit like opening one of the last presents on Christmas day, fear not. Abeja will be releasing its 2007 Reserve Cabernet this fall. Only made in select years – thus far 2002 and 2005 – this wine is 100% Cabernet made from the winery’s best barrels. A bit farther in the future, the winery will be releasing its first estate Cabernet next spring, which comes from the 2008 vintage.

While Abeja has made its name with Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery also recently received high praise for its 2008 Estate Syrah in the form of a 95-point rating from Wine Spectator. This puts the winery in rare company of those from Washington with wines that have received a ‘Classic’ rating from the publication. Can a Cabernet Sauvignon focused winery remain so while showing so much success with other varietals? Time will tell, but the king should sleep lightly.

Related Posts
Abeja (Fall Release 2009)

Abeja Chardonnay Washington State 2008 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pale in color. An engaging nose with spice, hay, and freshly sliced apples. Rounded edges on a palate speckled with oak textures and crisp acidity. Finish lingers. 100% Chardonnay. Celilo, Conner Lee, Gamache, and Kestrel vineyards. Aged in French oak (50% new). 13.8% alcohol. 669 cases produced.

Abeja Viognier Estate Walla Walla Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose is marked by peaches, floral notes, honeysuckle, and honey. A rounded mouthfeel loaded with mineral and peaches. 100% Viognier. Mill Creek Vineyard. Aged in neutral French oak. 14.5% alcohol. 148 cases produced.

Abeja Syrah Estate Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) An appealing, aromatic nose with smoke, blueberry, and floral notes. Tart and pleasing on a fruit-filled palate. Best Syrah from the winery to date. Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier. Mill Creek Vineyard. Aged in French (50%), Hungarian (40%) and American oak. 14.8% alcohol. 271 cases produced.

Abeja House Red Columbia Valley 2008 $21
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with baker’s chocolate, brambly berries, and streaky herbal notes. Very evenly balanced on the palate. An outrageous value. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.2% Merlot, 4.9% Cabernet Franc, and 4.9% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. 1,040 cases produced.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $43
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, earth, and touches of spice on a complex, evolving nose. The palate brings rich, intense cherry fruit and chocolate. Easily among the best Cabernets the winery has ever produced. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Heather Hill, Sagemoor (Bacchus and Weinbau), Hedges Estate, Blue Mountain, and Wallula vineyards. Aged in French oak (60% new). 14.9% alcohol. 2,294 cases produced.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $43
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Smoke, brambly berries, bittersweet chocolate, and high-toned floral notes. Delivers on the palate with richly flavored red and black fruit followed by a persistent finish. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. Heather Hill, Sagemoor (Bacchus and Dionysus), Hedges Estate, Blue Mountain, and Wallula vineyards. Aged in French oak (60% new). 14.8% alcohol. 3,357 cases produced.

Abeja (WWFR 2009)

This is part of a report on 2009 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. Download a complete .pdf copy of the report here.

Abeja – Spanish for bee – is located east of downtown Walla Walla in a beautiful setting that houses the winery and a Bed and Breakfast. Winemaker John Abbott had been studying veterinary medicine at Oregon State University when he developed an interest in the science of wine production. After taking a sensory evaluation course, he decided to transfer to Fresno State to study viticulture and enology.

Upon graduation, Abbott intended to return to his native state of Oregon to focus on its signature grape, Pinot Noir. However, after stops in Napa Valley’s Pine Ridge and Acacia wineries, his interests began to change. When an opportunity arose at Canoe Ridge Vineyard, he took a chance, moving to Washington in 1994. After eight years at the winery where he established a reputation for Cabernet and Merlot, Abbott left Canoe Ridge in 2002, founding Abeja with his friend Ken Harrison in 2004.

Abeja focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon along with limited bottlings of Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Viognier. In select years – thus far only 2002 and 2005 – the winery also releases a reserve Cabernet blended from their best barrels. On this weekend, Abeja was releasing their 2008 Chardonnay and 2007 Merlot. Abeja’s Chardonnay is consistently one of my favorites in the state. While their 2007 Merlot was locked up fairly tightly, the winery was pouring a 2004 vintage of the wine to give an indication of where they thought the 2007 vintage was going. Abeja also gave a sneak preview of the 2008 House Wine that will be released in the Spring. For a wine barely a year old, it shows great promise.

Abeja produces 4,000 cases annually.

Red wines sampled at 63 degrees.

Abeja Chardonnay Washington State 2008 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale in color. Nose marked by mineral, freshly sliced apples, and light oak spices. Crisp and spritely on the palate with the oak influence far in the background. 100% Chardonnay from Celilo, Conner Lee, Gamache, and Kestrel vineyards. Aged in 100% French oak (50% new). 13.8% alcohol. 669 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Abeja Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose is locked up and oak-driven at the moment showing toasted, smoky oak, pencil lead, and vanilla aromas. Tart and tight on the palate with a compact ball of fruit that needs time to expand. Give two years. 91% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc. Bacchus, Dionysus, and Gamache vineyards. Aged in French, Hungarian, and American oak (60% new). 14.6% alcohol. 659 cases produced.

Abeja Merlot Columbia Valley 2004 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) An intriguing nose with ground spices, red fruit, and clove. Full and round on a palate that has an almost meaty quality. A bit tart at times. A slow, smooth descent on the finish. 100% Merlot. Sagemoor, Bacchus, and Katherine Leone vineyards. Aged in French, Hungarian, and American oak (60% new). Library wine.

Abeja House Red Columbia Valley 2008 $NA
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Lots of vanilla, cinnamon, oak spices, and red and blue fruit on the nose. Drinking extremely well on the first half of the palate and then flattens out. Will improve with additional bottle age. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.2% Merlot, 4.9% Cabernet Franc, and 4.9% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. 1,040 cases produced. To be released Spring 2010.

Thanksgiving Recommendations

Reminder that this month’s Virtual Tasting will take place on Monday November 23rd. Read about it here.

Well folks, it’s time once again to make some Thanksgiving wine recommendations. Marcus and Melissa at EAT & DRINK In The Northwest covered rosés in their post earlier this month, so I will focus here on a few whites and light bodied reds.

In terms of white wines my personal preferences for Thanksgiving are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, or Riesling. Chardonnay also works well. In terms of Semillon, two of the most enjoyable I have tasted this year are from Buty and Ardenvoir. For Buty winemaker Caleb Foster, this is the seventeenth vintage he has made this Bordeaux-style blend in Washington. It shows on this gorgeous wine that will go toe-to-toe with anything on your Thanksgiving table. Ardenvoir is the white wine label of Walla Walla’s Chateau Rollat. Bowin Lindgren makes the wines and Bordeaux winemaker Christian LeSommer serves as consultant. I tasted these two whites during Fall Release Weekend earlier this month (full report to follow) and both are exceptional. In terms of Riesling, this is a varietal Washington does particularly well, so there is a lot to choose from. Two of my favorites on the shelves at the moment are these gems from Trust Cellars and Barnard Griffin. For Chardonnay, check out the latest released from Abeja, also sampled Fall Release Weekend.

In terms of reds, I like to go with lighter bodied wines to avoid overwhelming the food. Pinot Noir works quite well for Thanksgiving, but unfortunately doesn’t seem to work quite as well in Washington. Given this, I have listed two red blends that are consistent favorites. Yellow Hawk Cellar is located in Walla Walla and always makes wine with food in mind. The Solstice is a red blend that is predominantly Sangiovese. I liked this wine at $25, but it is currently on close-out for $10 which is a steal. Yellow Hawk also makes a Sangiovese that is worth checking out if you don’t see the Solstice. Syncline Wine Cellars is located in the Columbia Gorge. Their Subduction Red, made from a blend of Southern Rhone varietals, has been a long-time favorite. The 2008 vintage of this wine does not disappoint showing beautiful fruit aromas and flavors. People who enjoy acid-driven wines without much oak influence will enjoy this effort.

I have listed below Seattle-area as well as on-line retailers who carry these wines. As always, call ahead to ensure availability. Please leave a comment if you are aware of other locations in your area these wines are available or if you have wines you wish to recommend.

Wines

Buty Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle CV 2008 $24 Rating: *
Straw colored. A beautiful nose marked by lemon zest, touches of honey, mineral, and yeast. Floral notes emerge as the wine opens up. Fresh, tart, and lemon-loaded on the palate. 69% Sémillon, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle. Rosebud Ranches, Spring Creek, and Lonesome River Ranch vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. 1,050 cases produced.
Where Seattle Area: Esquin, Pete’s
Where On-line: Winery, AvalonWine.com

Ardenvoir Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $22 Rating: *
An alluring nose with lemon, yeast, wheat, and spice. Crisp and fresh on the palate. 92% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc.
Where Seattle area: McCarthy & Schiering

Ardenvoir Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $19 Rating: *
Pale yellow. A gorgeous nose with light spices, lemon zest. Very clean on the palate. Overall a very French-styled feel.
Where Seattle Area: McCarthy & Schiering, West Seattle Cellars

Trust Cellars Riesling 2008 $16 Rating: **
A beautiful nose with sugared grapefruit and pineapple. Spectacular citrus tastes blend with other fruit flavors. Exceptionally well balanced with mineral and a light sweetness on the taste. 100% Riesling. 38% CS Farms (Wahluke Slope); 30% Pheasant (Yakima); 30% Evergreen (Wahluke Slope); 2% Ancient Lakes. 12% alcohol. 224 cases produced. Sampled at 54 degrees.
Where Seattle-area: Esquin, City Cellars
Where On-line: Winery, MadWine.com, AvalonWine.com

Barnard Griffin Riesling Columbia Valley 2008 $10 Rating: *
Aromas explode from the glass with butterscotch (which fades as the wine opens up), Honey Dew melon, and white grapefruit. This is a textured, layered wine with a great deal of complexity on the palate. Fruit flavors – predominantly white grapefruit – step forward and back, undulating on and on. Settles in to an extended finish. Caroway & Arête vineyards (Columbia Valley). 1.2% RS, .82g/100ml TA, 11.7% alcohol. 3,870 cases produced.
Where: Everywhere

Abeja Chardonnay 2008 $36 Rating: *
Pale in color. Nose marked by freshly sliced apples, mineral, and like spices. Crisp and spritely on the palate. Any oak that is there is far in the background. 100% Chardonnay. Celilo, Conner Lee, Gamache, and Kestrel vineyards. Aged in 100% French oak (50% new).
Where Seattle Area: Pete’s
Where On-line: Winery

Yellow Hawk Solstice 2005 $10 Rating: *
A pleasing spiciness on the nose with black pepper and mineral. A nice, dry wine. 67% Sangiovese; 18% Cabernet; 15% Syrah.
Where Seattle-area: Esquin, City Cellars
Where On-line: Winery, MadWine.com

Syncline Subduction Red 2008 $18 Rating: +
Fairly light in color. An aromatic nose loaded with red fruit, particularly raspberries, strawberries, and red currant, along with a dusting of earth. As it opens up, violets, berries, and traces of game emerge. A light bodied, acid-driven wine that dances along the palate. Almost shockingly restrained with barely a trace of oak. Loses a bit of its rhythm about 2/3 of the way through but comes back together. A lot of wine for the money and a perfect wine to pair with food.26% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 24% Cinsault, 12% Mourvedre, 9% Counoise, 4% Carignan. Aged in 5-10% new oak. 14.1% alcohol. 1,770 cases produced. Recommended.
Where Seattle Area: City Cellars, Pete’s, Fremont Wine Warehouse
Where On-line: Winery, AvalonWine.com, West Seattle Cellars

Abeja Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Winemaker John Abbott founded Abeja with Ken Harrison in 2002. Prior to starting Abeja, Abbott had served as winemaker at Canoe Ridge. Located in Walla Walla, Abeja focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon along with limited bottlings of Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Viognier. In select years – thus far only 2002 and 2005 – Abeja releases a reserve Cabernet blended from their best barrels.

Wines:
Score	Name	Notes	$
**	Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Columbia Valley 2005	A power-packed nose with abundant campfire aromas along with spice, cigar box, and pencil shavings. Rich on the palate with soft fruit. An impressively long finish caps off this excellent effort. 100% Cabernet. 14.9% alcohol.	$75

Abeja (WWSR 2009)

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

For the 2007 vintage Abeja has rebranded the Beekeeper’s Blend – their red table wine made from declassified barrels – as the 2007 House Red. This wine includes a percentage of Petit Verdot for the first time. Fear not, the Beekeeper’s Blend name will reemerge as a new mid-tier wine in the future. Red wines sampled at 64 degrees.

Wines:
Score	Name	Notes	$
*	2007 Chardonnay Washington State	Lightly colored. A classic chardonnay nose with grass and mineral along with some tropical fruit. A thick, slightly buttery feel. A fair amount of oak but well integrated. Just a touch of spice and citrus on the finish. 100% Chardonnay. Sampled at 59 degrees.	$36
*	2008 Viognier Walla Walla Valley	Very lightly colored. Pear, honey, and melon on an engaging nose with a lot of sweet hints. Mineral and a slight spice component on the taste. A touch of lemon zest on the finish. Very young at present. 100% Viognier. Mill Creek Vineyard. Sampled at 53 degrees.	$28
*	2007 House Red Columbia Valley	Smoke and a light gaminess mark the nose. Dry and velvety on the palate with a lot of black fruit. An excellent wine for the money. 84% Cabernet; 7% Cab Franc; 6% Petit Verdot; 3% Merlot.	$21
**	2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley	Blueberry and spice on a nose that also reveals cedar and toasted oak. Lots of oak components emerge as the wine opens, including vanilla and rich dark chocolate. Dark berries lie underneath the oak. Thick and rich with a pretty serious bite to the tannins at present. Needs 1-3 years or extended decanting. Throwing lots of sediment. 81% Cabernet; 14% Merlot; 5% Cab Franc.	$42
+	2007 Syrah Walla Walla Valley	Dark in color. A light egg aroma along with game, blueberry, and cured meats. A bit sharp and aggressive on the palate. Hard to see exactly where it is going right now. 97% Syrah; 3% Viognier. Mill Creek Vineyard.	$32

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Meaning bee in Spanish, Abeja is currently making some of the states finest and most sought after cabernets.
Wines:
Score	Name	Notes	$
*	Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2005	Campfire smoke. Spicy oak. Sour cherry, with predominant cherry flavors throughout. White pepper. Tightly packed tannins. Still fairly closed.	$40