Archives for category: Trust Cellars

There is an inconvenient truth about spring in western Washington. It’s just not very spring like!

A recent look at the daily temperatures here serves as a case in point: high of 50, low of 46. Day after day after day after day. When I asked a friend recently what the next day’s weather was going to be he said, “Raining but it’s supposed to be warmer!” with hopeful anticipation.

Rather than cloudy and overcast with a chance of rain the forecast should just say “Dreary” with an unhappy face. The weather people should all be given nine month furloughs – really.

There is the occasional sign that warmer weather is on the way. One is the beautiful, fleeting emergence of the cherry blossoms. This is, of course, before the rain mercilessly knocks the flowers to the ground like so much confetti. Another is wine store shelves lined with rosé.

To me, the release of rosé always seems like a cruel joke. It is akin to clothing stores selling shorts in the midst of February. Who wants to buy rosé when the heat is still on and the fleece is still out?

Somebody does. But who are these people?

Sure as you’re born, most of the rosé is snapped up long before the weather calls for it. Perhaps there is a mulled rosé recipe somewhere that I am unfamiliar with?

Personally, I tend to think that it is a sign of western Washington’s desperation at this time of year. People think that if perhaps they stock up on enough warm weather wine, friendlier temperatures must surely follow. Poor souls. They have lived here too long. Their brains are permanently rain-soaked.

So here we are in spring 2011 with the weather cold and rainy and a new vintage of Washington rosé upon us, destined to disappear in the blink of an eye.

Before delving into the particulars, let me first say a few words about rosé. Rosé can be made from most any grape. This is not to say, however, that it should be made from any grape. A recent experience on a tasting panel at the Seattle Wine Awards serves as a case in point. Among a flight of somewhat depressing wines was a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé and a Merlot rosé. Yuck and yuck. Another rosé was even oaked. Yuck!

What’s the deal?

There are different ways of making rosé. One is called the saignee method where a winemaker takes the fermenting juice and bleeds some off to make rosé. This has the dual effect of creating immediate cash flow and also concentrating the remaining fermenting must which will be turned into red wine. This is why one often sees rosés with alcohol levels of 14.5 to 15 percent (yuck) similar to the final alcohol of the red wine it is made from. It is also why one sees grapes that are not traditionally used for rosé, such as the aforementioned Cabernet and Merlot. The latter would not be so bad if the wines were priced more accordingly. Most often they are not. Another method – less frequently done – is blending some red wine with white wine grapes.

Some grow grapes for the explicit purpose of creating rosé. The picking decisions come a bit earlier to retain freshness and acidity. The winemaking techniques change a bit. While this isn’t necessary, for me, the best rosés are often created with the grape growing in mind.

One thing to keep in mind is that rosés can have varying levels of sweetness, with some bone dry and others treacley sweet. This is somewhat of a personal preference depending on whether one is looking for your grandmother’s porch pounder (off-dry to sweet) or a mouthwatering summer sipper (dry). Unfortunately there is usually no way to tell the style from the label so caveat emptor (the wines listed below are all dry with the exception of the Kaella).

Perhaps the most exciting thing about rosé is the rainbow of different colors. Of course rainbows require the sun to see them so please look outside of the Pacific Northwest. Rosés range from copper to salmon, pale pink to strawberry red. Note that the color only speaks to the amount of skin contact and not to how dry or sweet the wine may be. Even the aromas can be deceiving with some showing so much fruit that it seems like the wine must be sweet when in fact it is bone dry.

On to this year’s crop. What follows is a list from what I have sampled this year (more to follow). Of particular note is the 2010 Tranche Cellars Pink Pape, a new offering from this winery and the first wine released from the winery’s estate vineyard, Blue Mountain. Only 168 cases of this Rhone varietal based blend were made so it is destined to be short-lived but is definitely worth seeking out.

Syncline Wine Cellars, who often produces a rosé that I dream about – literally, this year created a wine boasting a healthy dose of Pinot Noir. This would seem a sure sign of last year’s cool and challenging growing season. Wait. Or was that this year?

Let’s be clear. 2010 is gone and warmer days are surely ahead in 2011. So stock up on rosé before the warm weather gets here. Because by then, all of this year’s rosé will surely be gone.

Here’s to warmer times and climes.

Syncline Wine Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $18
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale salmon colored. A moderately aromatic wine marked by spice, watermelon, strawberry, and sour cherry. Fleshy and full feeling on the palate while retaining extremely crisp acidity on this bone dry offering. This is a red wine drinker’s rose with a level of complexity seldom seen in domestic offerings. 33% Pinot Noir, 17% Grenache, 17% Cinsault, 15% Carignan, 9% Mourvedre, and 9% Counoise. Celilo, Underwood, Milbrandt, McKinley Springs, Coyote Canyon, Alder Ridge, Ciel du Cheval, and Heart of the Hill vineyards.

Tranche Cellars Pink Pape Dry Rosé Walla Walla Valley 2010 $16
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale copper with a touch of salmon. A lightly aromatic wine with faint whiffs of strawberry, spice, and melon. The palate has abundant citrus notes and orange peel flavors. Almost imperceptible (drinks dry) but just the slightest touch of sugar to carry the fruit along and balance out the acidity. Beautifully drawn out with mouthwatering acidity and a lingeringly finish. An extremely enjoyable, well priced wine. 0.8% RS. TA 8.8g/L. 12.9% alcohol. Aged 7 months in stainless steel. 168 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese Washington State 2010 $12
Rating: * (Excellent) Light cherry red in color. An aromatic wine marked by wild strawberries, melon, and spice. Crisp, dry, and clean on a palate loaded with fruit flavors matched by mouthwatering acidity. A perfect summer wine at a can’t-be-beat price. This is a case purchase summer wine if ever there were one. Van Batavia, Balcom & Moe, and Gunkel vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.4% alcohol.

Waters Winery Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $18
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale salmon color. An aromatic wine with mineral, strawberry, floral notes, and spice. Incredibly tart with delicious, mouthwatering acidity. 65% Syrah, 30% Viognier, and 5% Grenache. Forgotten Hills and Old Stones Estate vineyards. 12.9% alcohol. 240 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Magician’s Assistant Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light salmon color. Aromas of strawberry, melon, and light spices. Bone dry on the palate with crisp, incredibly fresh fruit flavors. An extremely enjoyable wine with great acidity. 100% Cabernet Franc. Black Rock and Chelle den Millie vineyards. 13.7% alcohol. Recommended

Fjellene Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) Light cherry red color. Abundant strawberry, cherry, and light bubble gum notes. Crisp and tart with bright acidity with just the suggestion of sugar (0.89 g/L). 100% Syrah. 12.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Rosé of Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2010 $16
Rating: + (Good) Pale salmon colored. Intriguing aromas of pepper, strawberry, and spice. Palate has mouthwatering acidity and is absolutely loaded with spice – particularly pepper and cumin – on a fascinating flavor profile. 13.2% alcohol.

Vinyl Wines R3 Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: + (Good) Bright pink colored. An aromatic wine with cherries, strawberry, and other red fruit along with bubble gum notes. Palate brings more fruit flavors than are often seen in rose along with well balanced by acidity with just a suggestion of Residual Sugar (0.4) that carries the wine across the palate to the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 13.3% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Milbrandt Traditions Syrah Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $13
Rating: + (Good) A pretty pale pink color. Aromas of bubble gum, marshmallow, and light strawberry. Very dry and tart on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. 100% Syrah. 12.9% alcohol.

Kaella Winery Rosé of Sangiovese Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2010 $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light cherry red color. Spice, strawberry, sour cherry, and bubble gum aromas rise up from the glass. The palate is off dry and has a full feel with crisp acidity and a spice note on the finish. 13.2%. 1.65% Residual Sugar. 50 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

El Corazon Winery Red Frog Syrah Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: . (Decent) Pale pink. Aromas of strawberries, cashews, spice, and melon. The palate comes off as fat and fleshy, needing a bit more acidity to hold it together. 14.5% alcohol. 60 cases produced.

What follows is a section of my 2010 Walla Walla Spring Release Report. The report will be published in its entirety in .pdf form after the last entry is posted to the blog. See previous posts here.

Steve Brooks of Trust Cellars is representative of what life is like for many of Washington State’s small wineries. More than three quarters of the state’s 670+ wineries are small producers like Trust making less than 4,000 cases annually. This preponderance of small wineries is a trademark of the state’s industry. By contrast, many wineries in other areas often make more cases of a single wine in their portfolio.

Instead, numerous Washington wineries are mom and pop operations – or sometimes just mom or just pop. Winery ‘staff’ can often be counted not just on one hand but often one finger. Family, friends, and other volunteers are pulled in at critical times to assist. Life at a small winery requires always changing hats, from winemaker to janitor, to bookkeeper to marketeer. Additionally, it means lots of travel time. Even if a winery has as distributor, someone has to be out promoting the wines. At a small winery, the choices for whom will do this are few.

So it is with Steve Brooks. Brooks moved to Walla Walla with his family in 2003. Prior to the move, he had been working for CNN in Atlanta for nineteen years before deciding to take the plunge into the world of wine. After taking classes at the Center for Enology and Viticulture in Walla Walla and assisting at several area wineries, Brooks launched Trust Cellars. Since that time the winery has distinguished itself with small production riesling, cabernet, syrah, and rose. Trust has flourished over the years with production at 2,500 cases and a wine club with a long waiting list. No wonder as the winery consistently provides both exceptional quality and value. The new releases, reviewed below, do not disappoint. Indeed, the 2009 Cabernet Franc Rose is the best the winery has made to date and is the perfect summer wine.

Like many winemakers at Washington’s small wineries, Brooks is often on the move. Here’s a brief look at the last couple weeks in the life of Steve Brooks. July 15th was a winemaker dinner at June in Madrona. This was followed by a stop at West Seattle Cellars on July 17th to pour the winery’s new releases. Then back to Walla Walla…but not too long as Brooks was back in Seattle pouring at Poco Wine Room on the 22nd. August is much the same with visits to 106 Pine, Esquin, and the Sunset Supper at Pike Place Market. That’s a lot of frequent flier miles – on the car of course.

The frequent travel between eastern Washington and the Seattle area is a familiar story for Washington winemakers. While the Walla Walla Valley has a flourishing wine tourism industry, it is still comparatively small. Thus wineries must seek out larger population centers where the consumers are. While Brooks is considering opening a Seattle-area tasting room as many wineries have in the last year, he’ll no doubt still be traveling across the state frequently and taking one hat off to put another one on. “Living the dream,” Brooks says sardonically.

Trust Cellars Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $16
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. An aromatic nose with mineral, fresh white grapefruit, lemon rind, and a touch of stone fruit. Tart and fresh on the palate with bright acidity and a just a hint of sweetness on the finish. 100% Riesling. Pheasant, Hyatt, Wahluke Slope, Evergreen, and Ancient Lakes vineyards. 12.4% alcohol. 293 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Rose of Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2009 $16
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale pink with a tinge of orange. Nose is marked by wet stone, strawberries, and a touch of spice. Fresh, tart, and clean on a dry palate. Best rose from the winery yet. 100% Cabernet Franc. Bacchus (86%) and Black Rock vineyards. Fermented in neutral French oak. 13.2% alcohol. 187 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Earth, light game, blueberries, and a touch of chocolate on a beautifully aromatic wine. Palate shows lots of berry and umami flavors with a perfect balance of acidity to hold it all together. 100% Syrah. Lewis, Portteus, and Sundance vineyards. Aged 16 months in French oak (25% new). 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $28
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark purple in color, almost stains the glass. Bright blueberry aromas, violets, and touches of chocolate. Great intensity on the palate with silky fruit with grainy tannins and a slight citric note. Give one to two years. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Old Stones, and Davidson vineyards. Aged in French oak 18% new). 13.8% alcohol. 272 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $36
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Starts out as a black licorice bomb along with pencil shavings and blackberries on a very aromatic nose. Big and rich on the palate with lots of fruit accented by chocolate flavors. 76.5% Cabernet, 12.5% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc. Phinny Hill, Bacchus, Kelly, Conner Lee, and Lewis vineyards. Aged in French oak (50% new). 14% alcohol. 369 cases produced.

Red wines sampled at 67 degrees. Other wines at 59 degrees.

This is part of a report on 2009 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. Download a complete .pdf copy of the report here.

I have sung the praises of Trust Cellars previously. While I had sampled most these wines on prior occasions, with the exception of the knockout ice wine, each continues to impress. The 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah is a beautiful expression of the fruit from Les Collines, Va Piano, and Lewis vineyards; the Riesling is my favorite in the Washington state; and the ice wine is a fitting end to any meal. In addition to producing high quality wine, Trust Cellars also consistently offers high Quality-to-Price Ratios (QPRs).

Trust Cellars produces approximately 1,500 cases annually.

Trust Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $28
Rating: * (Excellent)
An appealing nose with chocolate, flowers, game, and blueberry. A rich palate with a finish that lingers. Syrah from Lewis, Portteus, and Sundance vineyards. Aged in French oak (25% new). 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007 $28
Rating: ** (Exceptional)
A nose that draws you into the glass with violets, game, and earth. Rich on the palate with gamey fruit and a touch of chocolate. 89% Syrah (Les Collines and Va Piano vineyards), 11% Cabernet Sauvignon (Lewis Vineyard). Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 214 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006 $36
Rating: * (Excellent)
Nose is marked by menthol, licorice, and tobacco. Thick and opulent on a palate that is beautifully speckled with oak flavors. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon from Phinny Hills, Champoux (Horse Heaven Hills), Bacchus (Columbia Valley), and Kelly (Walla Walla Valley) vineyards. 20% Merlot (Conner Lee Vineyard, Wahluke Slope). 13.8% alcohol. 235 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Riesling Columbia Valley 2008 $16
Rating: ** (Exceptional)
Abundant pink grapefruit and honey aromas mark the nose. A mineral-laden palate with a pleasing touch of sweetness that carries the wine across the palate without being overwhelming. 2% Residual Sugar. 12% alcohol. 224 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Ice Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional)
Golden colored. A gorgeous nose with honey, candied lemons, and light brown sugar. Thick and rich on the palate. 100% Sémillon (Rosebud and Prosser vineyards). 12.9% alcohol. 41 cases produced.

Reminder that this month’s Virtual Tasting will take place on Monday November 23rd. Read about it here.

Well folks, it’s time once again to make some Thanksgiving wine recommendations. Marcus and Melissa at EAT & DRINK In The Northwest covered rosés in their post earlier this month, so I will focus here on a few whites and light bodied reds.

In terms of white wines my personal preferences for Thanksgiving are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, or Riesling. Chardonnay also works well. In terms of Semillon, two of the most enjoyable I have tasted this year are from Buty and Ardenvoir. For Buty winemaker Caleb Foster, this is the seventeenth vintage he has made this Bordeaux-style blend in Washington. It shows on this gorgeous wine that will go toe-to-toe with anything on your Thanksgiving table. Ardenvoir is the white wine label of Walla Walla’s Chateau Rollat. Bowin Lindgren makes the wines and Bordeaux winemaker Christian LeSommer serves as consultant. I tasted these two whites during Fall Release Weekend earlier this month (full report to follow) and both are exceptional. In terms of Riesling, this is a varietal Washington does particularly well, so there is a lot to choose from. Two of my favorites on the shelves at the moment are these gems from Trust Cellars and Barnard Griffin. For Chardonnay, check out the latest released from Abeja, also sampled Fall Release Weekend.

In terms of reds, I like to go with lighter bodied wines to avoid overwhelming the food. Pinot Noir works quite well for Thanksgiving, but unfortunately doesn’t seem to work quite as well in Washington. Given this, I have listed two red blends that are consistent favorites. Yellow Hawk Cellar is located in Walla Walla and always makes wine with food in mind. The Solstice is a red blend that is predominantly Sangiovese. I liked this wine at $25, but it is currently on close-out for $10 which is a steal. Yellow Hawk also makes a Sangiovese that is worth checking out if you don’t see the Solstice. Syncline Wine Cellars is located in the Columbia Gorge. Their Subduction Red, made from a blend of Southern Rhone varietals, has been a long-time favorite. The 2008 vintage of this wine does not disappoint showing beautiful fruit aromas and flavors. People who enjoy acid-driven wines without much oak influence will enjoy this effort.

I have listed below Seattle-area as well as on-line retailers who carry these wines. As always, call ahead to ensure availability. Please leave a comment if you are aware of other locations in your area these wines are available or if you have wines you wish to recommend.

Wines

Buty Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle CV 2008 $24 Rating: *
Straw colored. A beautiful nose marked by lemon zest, touches of honey, mineral, and yeast. Floral notes emerge as the wine opens up. Fresh, tart, and lemon-loaded on the palate. 69% Sémillon, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle. Rosebud Ranches, Spring Creek, and Lonesome River Ranch vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. 1,050 cases produced.
Where Seattle Area: Esquin, Pete’s
Where On-line: Winery, AvalonWine.com

Ardenvoir Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $22 Rating: *
An alluring nose with lemon, yeast, wheat, and spice. Crisp and fresh on the palate. 92% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc.
Where Seattle area:
McCarthy & Schiering

Ardenvoir Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $19 Rating: *
Pale yellow. A gorgeous nose with light spices, lemon zest. Very clean on the palate. Overall a very French-styled feel.
Where Seattle Area: McCarthy & Schiering, West Seattle Cellars

Trust Cellars Riesling 2008 $16 Rating: **
A beautiful nose with sugared grapefruit and pineapple. Spectacular citrus tastes blend with other fruit flavors. Exceptionally well balanced with mineral and a light sweetness on the taste. 100% Riesling. 38% CS Farms (Wahluke Slope); 30% Pheasant (Yakima); 30% Evergreen (Wahluke Slope); 2% Ancient Lakes. 12% alcohol. 224 cases produced. Sampled at 54 degrees.
Where Seattle-area: Esquin, City Cellars
Where On-line:
Winery, MadWine.com, AvalonWine.com

Barnard Griffin Riesling Columbia Valley 2008 $10 Rating: *
Aromas explode from the glass with butterscotch (which fades as the wine opens up), Honey Dew melon, and white grapefruit. This is a textured, layered wine with a great deal of complexity on the palate. Fruit flavors – predominantly white grapefruit – step forward and back, undulating on and on. Settles in to an extended finish. Caroway & Arête vineyards (Columbia Valley). 1.2% RS, .82g/100ml TA, 11.7% alcohol. 3,870 cases produced.
Where: Everywhere

Abeja Chardonnay 2008 $36 Rating: *
Pale in color. Nose marked by freshly sliced apples, mineral, and like spices. Crisp and spritely on the palate. Any oak that is there is far in the background. 100% Chardonnay. Celilo, Conner Lee, Gamache, and Kestrel vineyards. Aged in 100% French oak (50% new).

Where Seattle Area: Pete’s
Where On-line: Winery

Yellow Hawk Solstice 2005 $10 Rating: *
A pleasing spiciness on the nose with black pepper and mineral. A nice, dry wine. 67% Sangiovese; 18% Cabernet; 15% Syrah.
Where Seattle-area:
Esquin, City Cellars
Where On-line: Winery, MadWine.com

Syncline Subduction Red 2008 $18 Rating: +
Fairly light in color. An aromatic nose loaded with red fruit, particularly raspberries, strawberries, and red currant, along with a dusting of earth. As it opens up, violets, berries, and traces of game emerge. A light bodied, acid-driven wine that dances along the palate. Almost shockingly restrained with barely a trace of oak. Loses a bit of its rhythm about 2/3 of the way through but comes back together. A lot of wine for the money and a perfect wine to pair with food.26% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 24% Cinsault, 12% Mourvedre, 9% Counoise, 4% Carignan. Aged in 5-10% new oak. 14.1% alcohol. 1,770 cases produced. Recommended.
Where Seattle Area:
City Cellars, Pete’s, Fremont Wine Warehouse
Where On-line: Winery, AvalonWine.com, West Seattle Cellars

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

One of the most exciting parts of this trip to Walla Walla was the stop at Trust Cellars. Winemaker Steve Brooks began making wine in 2005 after leaving his job at CNN. While his initial releases showed great promise, Brooks’ new releases realize that potential and more. Two of these wines – the 2008 Riesling and 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah – my friends and I talked about quite literally for the remainder of the weekend. With an exceptional lineup of wines and a wine club with a waiting list, there appears to be no limit to where this winery can go. All wines sampled at 65 degrees unless otherwise noted.

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

**

2008 Riesling Columbia Valley

A beautiful nose with sugared grapefruit and pineapple. Spectacular citrus tastes blend with other fruit flavors. Exceptionally well balanced with mineral and a light sweetness on the taste. 100% Riesling. 38% CS Farms (Wahluke Slope); 30% Pheasant (Yakima); 30% Evergreen (Wahluke Slope); 2% Ancient Lakes. 12% alcohol. 224 cases produced. Sampled at 54 degrees.

$16

+

2008 Rosé of Cab Franc Columbia Valley

Light smoky hints accompany pepper and a slight mustard component. Crisp and clean on the palate. An excellent summer wine. 100% Cab Franc. Bacchus Vineyard. 13.4% alcohol. 151 cases produced. Sampled at 60 degrees. Recommended

$16

*

2007 Syrah Columbia Valley

Dark purple. Blueberry and other light berries along with a hint of wintergreen mark the nose and taste. Two months in the bottle. Unfined and unfiltered. 54% Lewis; 31% Portteus; 13% Sundance vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

$28

**

2007 Syrah Walla Walla Valley

Very dark purple. Light game and floral aromas dance together on the nose. Dry on the palate with beautiful berry tastes. Finish hasn’t entirely come together yet but given a little more bottle age will be absolutely superb. 89% Syrah; 11% Cabernet. 61% Les Collines (Block 50 & 30), 28% Va Piano, 11% Lewis (Cabernet). 14.4% alcohol. 214 cases produced.

$28

*

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

Extremely dark to the point of almost being opaque. A compelling nose marked by pencil lead, light anise, and white pepper. Beautifully integrated tannins. 80% Cabernet; 20% Merlot. 39% Phinny; 20% Baccus; 11% Kelly; 10% Champoux. 20% Conner Lee (Merlot). 13.8% alcohol.

$36

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

Tasting Summary
3 days, 21 wineries, over 110 wines sampled.

Spring Release is one of the most exciting times in Washington wine country. Throughout Walla Walla Valley, vines are starting new growth and wineries are releasing their latest vintages. New wineries are opening their doors for the first time and are busy preparing for one of Walla Walla’s busiest weekends.

As usual, we tried to divide up the weekend between wineries we had visited a number of times and wineries we had never visited before. In terms of the former, Walla Walla stalwarts Long Shadows, Spring Valley, and K Vintners continued to impress. However, two wineries in particular stood up and demanded attention on this visit. These wineries were Trust Cellars and Forgeron Cellars.

Trust Cellars was started five years ago by Steve Brooks and his wife Lori. After working for twenty years at CNN in Atlanta, Brooks decided it was time for something different. An article in the New York Times about eastern Washington led Brooks to decide it was time for a leap of faith – Trust. In the ensuing years, Brooks learned the wine trade the old fashioned way, taking classes at the Center for Enology and Viticulture in Walla Walla and assisting a number of area wineries. Now releasing his fourth vintage, Brooks is showing why a little faith is not such a bad thing. Trust currently produces a Rosé, a Riesling, a Cabernet, and two Syrahs, one from Columbia Valley and one from Walla Walla Valley. Brooks’ wines are expressive and are distinguished both by diversity and exceptional quality across the lineup. While all are noteworthy, some, such as the 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah, are sublime. This wine is composed of Syrah from Les Collines and Va Piano vineyards, two of the finest in the valley. Brook’s addition of 11% Cabernet from Prosser’s Lewis Vineyard gives the wine additional structure and complexity that makes it shine.

Forgeron Cellars was founded in 2001. Marie-Eve Gilla serves as part-owner and winemaker. Forgeron sources grapes from excellent vineyard sources, including Stillwater Creek, Les Collines, Pepper Bridge, Klipsun, and Boushey. While Forgeron uses this fruit to produce a number of standard varietal wines, the winery also produces several less common varietal wines, including an excellent Roussanne and perhaps the best Zinfandel being made in the state. Gilla’s wines are simultaneously bold and understated – a compelling combination of the Old World and New. Of these wines, the 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet was simply transcendent, a wine so good that it literally brought all conversation to a stop.

Wineries we visited for the first time included Le Chateau, Morrison Lane, Garrison Creek Cellars, Grande Ronde Cellars, and Rotie Cellars. Rotie Cellars was celebrating its first release Spring Release weekend. Winemaker Sean Boyd is currently assistant winemaker at Waters Winery. For his inaugural release, Boyd produced three Rhone-style wines. There are two reds – a 2007 Northern Blend that is Syrah co-fermented with Viognier and a 2007 Southern Blend that is composed of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. These are exciting, dynamic wines that offer restrained alcohol levels and terrific fruit. This is wine to seek out – and seek out quickly I might add. As of this writing Rotie Cellars had about a quarter of these wines remaining just two months after release.

In addition to wineries opening their doors for the first time, long established Waterbrook was also celebrating on Spring Release weekend. Here the occasion was the unofficial opening of their new facility west of Walla Walla. The production facility and tasting room were still under construction, so much so that the doors to the production center had just been installed that afternoon. Waterbrook’s new buildings are part of a trend over the last several years of creating large facilities west of Walla Walla. This list now includes Reininger (who is expanding), Three Rivers, Long Shadows, and Cougar Crest. However, in terms of scale, all of these facilities pale in comparison to Waterbrook’s 300,000 case production capacity. The majority of that production will serve Precept Wine Brands other labels, which include Magnificent Wine Company, Apex Cellars, Pine & Post, Pavin & Riley, and Washington Hills among many others.

Another trend that was apparent on this visit was for Walla Walla wineries to open tasting rooms west of the Cascades in Woodinville. In the coming months, look for west side tasting rooms from Dusted Valley Vintners, Tertulia Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars, Trust Cellars, and Gifford Hirlinger. I would expect more wineries to do the same in the future. While Walla Walla wineries are heading west, this is no reason not to head east as Walla Walla wine country gets more exciting with each passing year.

On June 3rd David LeClaire of Seattle Uncorked hosted the 7th annual “Rosé Revival and Other Cool Whites” event. Uncorked hosts a variety of wine events and classes in the Seattle area (see my post on Uncorked’s recent syrah event here). LeClaire likes to pair his events with good causes. This event was a benefit for the Ryther Child Center.

“Rosé Revival and Other Cool Whites” took place at Ray’s Boathouse and featured more than 60 wines from over 25 wineries, the vast majority from Washington state. The event was listed as a dry rosé event to make sure people didn’t show up looking for the white zin – wrong wine, wrong crowd. The date was smack in the middle of our record breaking dry spell, and the temperature was a sultry 88 degrees – perfect weather for rosé and white wine.

Let me say a few things up front about rosé and white wine. In terms of rosé, I like crisp, clean, refreshing wines. Residual sugar (RS) is generally a disqualifier for me, although my favorite rosé (Jones of Washington) did have a trace of RS at 0.7%. Personally I thought it worked for this wine. In terms of white wine, I am fairly sensitive to oak influence and generally prefer white wines that have been produced in stainless steel or (very) neutral oak barrels. To wit, the wines that came in first and second in the judging (see below, AlmaTerra Coeo Viognier 2007 and Brian Carter Cellars Oriana 2006 respectively) had a bit more oak influence than I care for. I thought the Oriana pulled it off; I didn’t think the Coeo quite did but it was also a bit warm when I sampled it.

Some thoughts on Washington rosé based on this event and other recent tastings. I enjoy rosé on hot a summer day. That said, it is not generally a knock-out wine – nor is it intended to be. It is meant to be light and refreshing on a hot day. If you were raised on cabernet and chardonnay and are looking for something that packs a punch, rosé might not be the wine for you. A recent Walla Street Journal article stated that many American rosés seem like throwaways, lacking real passion and care. While Washington surely has its share of these, a number of winemakers in Washington have put a considerable amount of effort into their rosés, with some even having vineyard blocks designated for rosé production.

Rosés tend to be inexpensive, as less overall cost goes in to the production due to limited barrel exposure, limited aging, etc. Rosés at this event ranged from $9 to $18 and averaged $13. Many of the rosés that I have been sampling or seeing on the shelves from Washington are at the high end of this range. Personally I think this is a bit of a mistake. Although many of these are excellent wines, once a wine pushes toward $20 I start to think about a good white wine or an inexpensive red. More importantly, I start to expect a bit more from the wine in terms of complexity and depth, so there can be an expectation mismatch at this price point. An additional concern is that there are abundant French rosés at $10 that are every bit as good or better. Indeed, Hand Picked Selections – a national wine merchant – was pouring several French rosés at this event for $10 that were excellent.

There is a lot of variation in the varietals being used for rosé in Washington, from sangiovese and cabernet franc to cabernet, Dolcetto, syrah and other varietals. There is also a lot of variation stylistically, both in terms of how they are made (see a previous post for more on this) and how they taste. I tried a rosé recently that was bright red in color and had 2% residual sugar. While some might enjoy this style, it is not what I am looking for. For the consumer, a few sugary rosés can make you a bit gun shy about picking up another bottle. This variation no doubt leads to some consumer confusion. To me, this is all the more reason to attend events like this one to try before you buy (Note: wine was also being sold at this event).

Listed below are my top rosé and white wines from this event. I have listed my top three wines as well as other wines that stood out. Also listed are the judges’ top wines as well as the people’s choice from balloting. A complete list of wine poured at the event is at the bottom of this post.

As with other Uncorked events I have attended, at “Rosé Revival and Summer Whites” the location was superb, the atmosphere excellent, there was abundant quality wine, and the food matched the occasion – all for about the cost of a bottle of wine. Uncorked’s next event is the 7th Annual “Debuts and Discoveries” which focuses on wineries in the first 3-4 years of releasing wine, on Thursday June 25th. See a list of participating wineries here.

My Top Rosés

1. Jones of Washington Rosé of Syrah 2008 $11

This was my first time trying Jones of Washington’s wines, and I must say that I came away quite impressed. Jones of WA is a family owned winery. Jack Jones is the owner and his son Greg does the winemaking and oversees the operation. The family’s estate vineyards were planted in 1997. The 2008 Rosé of Syrah is pale pink, loaded with earth and mineral, and has just a suggestion of sweetness that gives the wine a little extra body.

2. Skylite Cellars Sangiovese Rosé 2008 $17

Skylite Cellars is located in the Walla Walla Valley. The 2008 Sangiovese rosé is lightly colored and redolent with fresh melon, strawberry, and mineral. Crisp and clean on the palate and refreshingly tart.


3. Smasne Rosé 2008

Smasne Cellars is located in Woodinville. Robert Smasne is owner and winemaker. The 2008 Rosé is composed of 66% Sangiovese and 34% Muscat. The wine is lightly colored and full of fruit and earth. A light zing at the end pulls it all together. At the time of this tasting the 2008 was not released. I thought the 2007 was a bit past its prime. See a recent post on Smasne from WINO magazine here.

Other Recommended Washington Rosé (in alphabetical order)

Tefft Cellars Dolcetto Rosé 2007
Trust Cellars Rosé of Cabernet Franc 2008 $15
Yellow Hawk Rosato 2008

Recommended French Rosé (in alphabetical order):
Bargemone Ctx d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2008 $16 (Hand Picked Selections)
Chateau de Donjon Minervois Rosé 2008 $14 (Hand Picked Selections)

Cuve de Pena Rosé 2008 $10 (Hand Picked Selections)
Massamier Cuvee de Oliviers Rosé 2008 $10 (Hand Picked Selections)

My Top White Wines

1. Trust Cellars Riesling 2008 $15

I first tried this wine at Walla Walla Spring Release weekend (full report out later this month God willing) where it was one of my top wines. This is an off-dry Riesling with 2% RS. The wine has a beautiful nose with sugared grapefruit and pineapple. Exceptionally well balanced on the palate with mineral and a light sweetness.

2. Jones of Washington Viognier 2008 $14

Unfortunately the winery ran out of this wine reasonably early in the event – I got the last pour from the bottle – which is a shame as it is an excellent wine. The fruit is from Jones of Washington’s estate vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. The wine is almost completely clear in color and chock full of white peaches. On the palate it is round and generous while remaining clear and crisp. Exceptionally well done.

3. Cedergreen Cellars Old Vine Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2008 $16

Who knew there was good Chenin Blanc coming out of Washington? I have to admit that I didn’t. Cedergreen Cellars is the work of Kevin Cedergreen. The winery is located in Kirkland. The 2008 Old Vine Chenin Blanc is from Williams Farm and Snipes Road vineyards. The wine was fermented in 500 liter Hungarian oak puncheon. 100% Chenin Blanc. 13.0% alcohol. 194 cases produced.

Other recommended Summer Whites (in alphabetical order):

Brian Carter Oriana 2006 $22
DiStefano Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $16

Gilbert Cellars Riesling 2007

Jones of Washington Estate Riesling 2007 $11

KANA Katie Mae 2007 $13

Palouse Winery Cloud 9 Riesling 2008 $17

Thurston Wolfe PGV 2007 $13

The Judges
Kelly Barry – Seattle Cellars
Shannon Borg – Seattle Magazine Wine Writer
Rob Ord – Wild Ginger Sommelier
Cole Sisson – Seastar Sommelier
Sean Sullivan – Washington Wine Report
Jeff Thorsen – Cave Vivant Sommelier

The Judge’s Winners

White Winners

1st Place – Alma Terra Coeo Viognier 2007 – $23
2nd Place – Brian Carter Cellars
Oriana 2006 $22
3rd Place – Cedergreen Cellars
Chenin Blanc 2008 $16

Rosé Winners

1st Place – Wilridge Winery 2008 Rosé (Syrah) $18
2nd Place – Tefft Cellars
Dolcetto Rosé 2007 – $9
3rd Place – Skylite Cellars
Rosé (Sangiovese) 2008 – $17
3rd Place – DiStefano
Rosé Amare2008 – $17

3rd Place – Jones of Washington
Rosé (Syrah) 2008 – $11

The People’s Choice Awards

White Winners

1st Place – Skylite Cellars Viognier 2007 – $17
2nd Place – Thurston Wolfe Winery
PGV 2007 – $13
3rd Place – Brian Carter Cellars
Oriana 2006 $22

Rosé Winners
1st Place – Tefft Cellars
Dolcetto Rosé 2007 – $9

1st Place – PengWine
Fairy Cab/Malbec Rosé 2006 – $11
2nd Place – Wilridge Winery
2008 Rosé (Syrah) $18
3rd Place – Kestrel Vintners
Rosé 2008 – $12
3rd Place – Trust Cellars
Rosé of Cabernet Franc 2008 – $15

Wines Poured at the Event
Airfield Estates Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 $11
Airfield Estates Foot-stomped Syrah Rosé 2008 $13
Alma Terra Coeo Viognier 2007 $23
Brian Carter Cellars Oriana 2006 $22
Cedergreen Cellars Viola Rosé 2008 $13
Cedergreen Cellars Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2008 $16
DiStefano Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $16
DiStefano Cellars Rosé Amare 2008 $17
Eaton Hill Winery Orange Musact NV $12
Eaton Hill Winery Sun Glow NV $14
Gamache Estate Viognier 2007 $17
Gamache Estate Riesling 2007 $17
Gilbert Cellars Riesling 2007 $14
Gilbert Cellars Estate Chardonnay 2007 $18
Boniface Apremont Vin de Savoie 2007 $16 (Hand Picked Selections)
Ninet de Pena Viognier 2007 $11(Hand Picked Selections)
Massamier Cuvee de Oliviers Rosé 2008 $10 (Hand Picked Selections)
Cuve de Pena Rosé 2008 $10 (Hand Picked Selections)
Bargemone Ctx d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2008 $16 (Hand Picked Selections)
Chateau de Donjon Minervois Rosé 2008 $14 (Hand Picked Selections)
Chateau de Lancyre Pic St. Loup Rosé 2008 $16 (Hand Picked Selections)
Jones of WA Viognier 2008 $14
Jones of WA Estate Riesling 2007 $11
Jones of WA Syrah Rosé $11
KANA Winery Masterpiece 2007 $18
KANA Winery Katie-Mae $13
Kestrel Vintners Rosé 2008 $12
Kestrel Vintners Viognier 2008 $18
Lost River Winery Pinot Gris 2008 $14
Lost River Winery Rainshadow 2008 $14
Masset Winery Le Petite Blanc 2008 $13
Masset Winery Rosato 2008 $16
Naches Heights Vineyards Rose Rosé 2008 $15
Naches Heights Vineyards Pinot Gris 2007 $11
Naches Heights Vineyards Riesling 2008
Palouse Winery Golden Pearl Viognier 2008 $20
Palouse Winery Cloud 9 Riesling 2008 $17
Parejas Cellars Riesling 2007 $9
Parejas Cellars Rosé 2007 $8
Passion Vineyards Pinto Grigio 2007 $14
Passion Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 $15
Patterson Cellars Rosé 2008 $13
Patterson Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $13
Peng Wine Magellan Unoaked Chardonnay 2005 $11
Peng Wine Fairy Cab/Malbec Rosé 2006 $11
Samson Estates Winery Delilah Raspberry NV $10
Samson Estates Winery Riesling 2008 $14
Skylite Cellars Sangiovese Rosé 2008 $17
Skylite Cellars Viognier 2007 $17
Smasne Cellars Rosella Rosé 2007 $17
Smasne Cellars Rosella Rosé 2008 $17 (Not yet released at time of tasting)
Tefft Cellars Dolcetto Rosé 2007 $9
Tefft Cellars Rosey Outlook 2007 $9
Thurston Wolfe Winery PGV 2007 $13
Trust Cellars Rosé of Cabernet Franc 2008 $15
Trust Cellars Riesling 2008 $15
Two Mountain Dry Rosé 2008 $9
Two Mountain Riesling 2008 $13
Wedge Mountain Winery Dry Riesling 2007 $16
Whitman Cellars Viognier 2007 $18
Whitman Cellars Riesling 2008 $13
Wilridge Winery Syrah Rosé 2008 $18
Wilridge Winery Pinot Grigio 2008 $18
Wilridge Winery Semillon 2008 $16
Yellow Hawk Cellar Muscat Canelli 2007 $11
Yellow Hawk Cellar Rosato 2008 $11

Over the weekend Paul Gregutt put a post on his blog (which if you are not reading you should be) about why Washington syrah doesn’t sell particularly well. One of the reasons, which I agree with, is that there are not very many good Washington syrahs in the value category. There are many exceptional wines at $30 and over but not many for less than that as far as I have seen.

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to prove this hypothesis wrong. So…

1. Tell me what you think are good Washington syrahs that are $15 and under. I will start the bidding with:

2. Tell me what you think are good Washington syrahs that are $30 and under. Here I will spot you (the list is obviously bigger but so is the price point):

3. Give data that Washington syrah does sell particularly well just to throw the whole thing out the window

4. Give data that there are not quality syrahs at this price point outside of Washington either

This message will self destruct in five seconds…

My favorite game after a day of wine tasting is to sit around with friends and go, person by person, through a series of questions about what stood out. Usually we do this at dinner and go around the table with everyone having a turn to answer the question posed. Then we move on to the next question. This would seem like a strange game but we are strange people. For me, talking about wine is a big part of the fun. The questions inevitably go like this – What was the wine of the weekend? What was the winery of the weekend? What was the value wine of the weekend? What was the most exciting new winery we visited? What was the biggest disappointment?

Usually this just makes for fun dinner time conversation. However, for 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release, I thought I would let you in on the fun and share the answers from myself and my friends Pat and Lindy who accompanied me on this trip. Of course, I take no responsibility for their thoughts as I can barely take responsibility for my own. Without further ado…

Wine of the Weekend – This is what I like to call the WoW Award. Over the course of three to four days it is not uncommon for us to try one hundred or more wines. The question – If you had to pick just one wine as standing out above others, what would it be?

Forgeron 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard $48 (Sean, Lindy) In the middle of a conversation with two people from the winery, Lindy tried this wine and blurted out “Oh my God!” bringing all conversation to a halt. After the conversation continued I tried the wine and, again interrupting the conversation, exclaimed “Oh my God you weren’t kidding.” It is a wine so good one loses all discretion upon first sip. A superb, breathtaking effort by winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla.

Trust Cellars 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah $28 (Pat) Pat declared this wine “the standard by which others shall be judged.” NB: This was a close second for my WoW Award.

Winery of the Weekend – Of the wineries we visited, what one winery stood out for its entire line-up?

Trust Cellars (Sean) Since starting Trust, winemaker Steve Brooks has made two excellent vintages of Syrah and Cabernet. His new releases, however, which include a 2008 Riesling, a 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah, and a 2007 Columbia Valley Syrah, are all simply standouts. Hats off Mr. Brooks.

Corliss Estates (Lindy, Pat) We first visited Corliss for 2008 Holiday Barrel Tasting and left blown away. On this occasion – the release of their 2004 Syrah – we also tasted barrel samples of their 2007 Syrah and Cabernet which were excellent.

Value of the Weekend – What one wine stood out as being a particular value?

Trust Cellars 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah $28 (Sean, Pat) The Syrah in this wine is composed of fruit from Les Collines and Va Piano vineyards, two of the finest in the valley. Add in 11% Cabernet from Prosser’s terrific Lewis Vineyard and the results are magic. This is an outrageous wine at a fantastic price compared to similar quality Syrah coming out of Washington.

Trust Cellars 2008 Columbia Valley Riesling $16 (Sean) This wine was tied for me for value of the weekend. While Riesling is generally a reasonably priced wine, this wine is a stunner – the first non-dessert white I have ever given a double star rating to. A wine this good at $16 cannot be ignored.

K Vintners 2007 Milbrandt Syrah $25 (Lindy) While Charles Smith’s Walla Walla offerings carry a pretty hefty price tag, his wines from the Columbia Valley and the Wahluke Slope are about half the price and certainly more than half as good.

Most exciting new winery – What new winery or winery you hadn’t visited before most excited you about Walla Walla wine?

For Lindy and me, this was a tie. Since the winemakers are friends, we will let them duke it out.

Rotie Cellars (Sean, Lindy) Sean Boyd is assistant winemaker at Waters Winery. He recently released three Rhone-style wines for his new winery, Rotie Cellars. There are two reds – a 2007 Northern Blend that is Syrah co-fermented with Viognier and a 2007 Southern Blend that is composed of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. These are exciting, dynamic wines that offer restrained alcohol levels and terrific fruit. This is wine to seek out.

Kerloo Cellars (Sean, Lindy) Ryan Crane is assistant winemaker at Va Piano. This fall he will be releasing two Syrah – one with fruit from Va Piano and Les Collines vineyards; one exclusively from Les Collines Vineyard. A local friend who had tasted Crane’s wines before I sampled them said “You are going to have your eyes opened.” Indeed, both of Kerloo’s inaugural wines are off the hook good. Crane also has a 2008 Tempranillo in the barrel that is exceptional – one of the few I have tasted from Washington that brings the Spanish grape home.

Forgeron Cellars (Pat) This was Pat’s first visit to Forgeron. He came away a believer.

Disappointment of the Weekend – For all the highs, there must be some lows. These could be wines, wineries, or experiences. The question – What was your biggest disappointment of the weekend?

Morrison Lane (Sean, Lindy) Lindy and I had tried several wines from Morrison Lane a while back and came away extremely impressed. So we were extremely excited to visit this winery and try a number of the unique varietals that they produce. Unfortunately on this visit – our first – the wines were all too warm (a good bit over 70 degrees) and didn’t show well as a result.

Long Shadows (Pat) The disappointment here was around the event which was a tasting of library wines. While several were tasted, specifically the 2005 Pirouette, 2004 Chester Kidder, and 2005 Sequel, the tasting did not include any wines from the 2003 vintage – the winery’s first – or others from 2004 or 2005. The wines in attendance were excellent. Those that were not were missed.

If you attended Spring Release in Walla Walla last weekend, feel free to join in this game and post your thoughts to these questions or other things that stood out during your visit.

As mentioned previously, a full write-up of the weekend including tasting notes will follow in about a month’s time. See the 2008 Walla Walla Barrel Tasting Report here (Note: opens .pdf).

NB: For those in the Seattle-area, Trust Cellars has a tasting at the Wine Alley in Renton on Thursday May 14th.

What follows is an excerpt for the 2008 Walla Walla Holiday Barrel Tasting Report. Read the full report here.

Steve Brooks’ wines are as outspoken as he is unassuming. Trust’s wines have started to receive some distribution so keep an eye out for them. All wines sampled at 66 degrees.

Score

Name

Notes

$

*

Syrah Lewis Vineyard 2007

Light gamey notes and lots of fruit on the nose. Very smooth and evenly balanced.


BS

*

Syrah Columbia Valley 2006

Wheat, white pepper, and spice alongside blackberry and other berry aromas. A nice dry, medium-bodied wine. 100% Syrah. Lewis, Minnick, and Portteus vineyards. 14.0% alcohol. 216 cases produced.


$28

+

Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2005

Tons of clove on the nose. The tannins have an engaging grittiness to go along with a tart cherry taste. 75% Cabernet; 25% Merlot. Va Piano, Champoux, Pepper Bridge, and Lewis vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. 180 cases produced.

$36